Washing machine plumbing - advice needed.

[Sleebagz]

I'm looking to replace our washing machine with a new one that is cold-fed only and have a question regarding the plumbing.

I've had a read through the forums for help and as my current machine is hot and cold feed, I have ordered a 3/4" blanking cap to cap off the hot feed pipe (I presume it screws on in place of the red screw fitting as seen in the image attached below).

However I have a question regarding the plumbing as it stands..... I would like to fit a shut off valve to the cold feed as I'm not sure if what I have currently are shut off valves? They appear to have a small 'knob' on each of the pipes but despite my best efforts neither of them turn therefore it isn't possible to shut the water off to the machine individually.

My questions are as follows (based on image below):

1. Are these shut off valves and are they replaceable with a more modern one on the cold feed with a handle I can turn?

2. Can I remove both the hot feed pipe and the 'extra bit' of silver coloured pipe and just screw the blanking cap to the screw fitting coming off the main feed pipe, rather than having a piece of additional pipe sticking out with the blanking cap on the end of it?

3. If I want to add a shut off valve to the cold feed is it just a case of buying one and screwing one end to the main pipe and then screw the cold feed to the washing machine to the other end, or do I need extra equipment / components?

Apologies for the lack of proper terms, I'm a novice when it comes to DIY!

Untitled

• Sleebagz
• 28 May 2015
• 1

Untitled

• Sleebagz
• 28 May 2015
• 1

Untitled

• Sleebagz
• 28 May 2015
• 1

 

[mogget]

They are shut off valves with the handles missing, you might be able to turn them with pliers.

I wouldn't bother taking the hot one out personally, but would replace them with new valves complete with handles, using a smear of jointing compound on the already used olives.

 

[Madrab]

1. Are these shut off valves and are they replaceable with a more modern one on the cold feed with a handle I can turn?

yes, you can buy similar replacements - http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-washing-machine-valve-15mm-x/25555

2. Can I remove both the hot feed pipe and the 'extra bit' of silver coloured pipe and just screw the blanking cap to the screw fitting coming off the main feed pipe, rather than having a piece of additional pipe sticking out with the blanking cap on the end of it?

No, you would need to buy a 15mm blanking cap to fit the T, trouble is it would need to have the same thread, that's a 50/50 trial depending on how old the T is.

3. If I want to add a shut off valve to the cold feed is it just a case of buying one and screwing one end to the main pipe and then screw the cold feed to the washing machine to the other end, or do I need extra equipment / components?

Not needed if you do 1

 

[Sleebagz]

Thanks for the replies. In terms of replacing both shut off valves for modern replacements, do they simply unscrew and then replace with a new one?

From the picture it seems as though there's a bit of copper pipe going into the valve rather than something with a screw thread?

Do you think it's worth trying a cap for the T for the sake of a few quid to see if it'll thread onto it?

 

[stardanny]

Don't buy a cap, use this ( discard nut and olive )

Unscrew the nut that is over valve and discard valve, use jointing compound onto existing olive and insert end stop into it and tighten.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Compression-Stop-End-15mm-Pack-2/p/420242

Daniel.

 

[Madrab]

Of course with any new fitting onto an old one there could be an issue with the threads matching whether it be a cap onto the T or a blank end into the compression nut.

Though to be perfectly honest, and not wishing to sound cheeky, if you're looking for the possibility of a thread on the copper pipe going into the valve then you may have issues with installing new compression fittings correctly.

If you're not familiar with the type of fittings and how they should be replaced then I'd recommend getting a professional in.

 

[Sleebagz]

Of course with any new fitting onto an old one there could be an issue with the threads matching whether it be a cap onto the T or a blank end into the compression nut.

Though to be perfectly honest, and not wishing to sound cheeky, if you're looking for the possibility of a thread on the copper pipe going into the valve then you may have issues with installing new compression fittings correctly.

If you're not familiar with the type of fittings and how they should be replaced then I'd recommend getting a professional in.

You're correct, I'm not familiar with these fittings, haven't got a clue in fact - the only nuts and olives I know of are be edible variety! But if I got a professional in every time I needed a tiny job done I'd be both bankrupt and spend my life waiting for a plumber to come to a job they don't want to do.

Hence why forums such as these are such help.

Anyways I'm off to google nut, olives and compression fittings to try and figure out what the heck I've got to do to make the 3 quid part suggested fix the issue I have....

 

[Madrab]

Fair enuf, nothing ventured nothing gained.

of course the valves you have could be perfectly serviceable, those brass squares with the screw threaded hole in them are the valves and are what the levers screw onto, if you can turn them through 90deg with a pair of grips/pliers/adjustable spanner then they will be fine to use and don't need replaced.

or buy another valve with the 2 levers as you may be able to use the new levers on your old valves.

Turn them off and replace with the new cold pipe for the washing machine and just disconnect the hot feed pipe

 

[Sleebagz]

Fair enuf, nothing ventured nothing gained.

of course the valves you have could be perfectly serviceable, those brass squares with the screw threaded hole in them are the valves and are what the levers screw onto, if you can turn them through 90deg with a pair of grips/pliers/adjustable spanner then they will be fine to use and don't need replaced.

or buy another valve with the 2 levers as you may be able to use the new levers on your old valves.

Turn them off and replace with the new cold pipe for the washing machine and just disconnect the hot feed pipe

Is it accepted practice to just leave an old valve with a blanking cap on the hot end when disconnecting a hot feed pipe? Won't the pipe and valve that juts out off the main pipe hold water that could become... erm... stale?

 

[mfarrow]

Of course with any new fitting onto an old one there could be an issue with the threads matching whether it be a cap onto the T or a blank end into the compression nut.

Not with these it isn't http://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-blanking-disc-caps-15mm-pack-of-2/64472

 

[Madrab]

Of course with any new fitting onto an old one there could be an issue with the threads matching whether it be a cap onto the T or a blank end into the compression nut.

Not with these it isn't http://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-blanking-disc-caps-15mm-pack-of-2/64472[/QUOTE]

they are a great idea, hadn't seen them, ideal for the T, just need to get the nut off the copper.

Slee, you're talking about a dead leg, that small length of pipe would not cause an issue but M's link will suit for the T, just need to cut the copper tail to get the nut for the T off it and pop one of those blanks in.

Mind and turn all the water off before doing this.

 

[Sleebagz]

Of course with any new fitting onto an old one there could be an issue with the threads matching whether it be a cap onto the T or a blank end into the compression nut.

Not with these it isn't http://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-blanking-disc-caps-15mm-pack-of-2/64472[/QUOTE]

they are a great idea, hadn't seen them, ideal for the T, just need to get the nut off the copper.

Slee, you're talking about a dead leg, that small length of pipe would not cause an issue but M's link will suit for the T, just need to cut the copper tail to get the nut for the T off it and pop one of those blanks in.

Mind and turn all the water off before doing this.

Thanks for your responses, in terms of 'cutting the copper tail', can you explain this in laymans terms? Looking at the photo can I not just unscrew the nut that's protruding from the T and the whole lot will come away, leaving a thread I can then just screw the cap on to?

Why do I need to cut anything?

 

[Madrab]

In between the nut and the end of the pipe is what's called an olive, it's a copper or brass ring that creates the watertight seal between the nut, the T and the pipe. This is usually compressed onto the pipe and will stop you just pulling the nut off.
So you either cut the olive off or cut the middle of the pipe, to get the nut off, it's just sometimes easier to cut the pipe when it's that size.

You then use that nut, pop the blank into it and then tighten onto the T.

 

[Agile]

I am sure that there are plenty of non gas reg plumbers who would be quite happy with a simple job like this ( as long as the mains water stopcock is working ).

Would probably charge about £35 to £45 if you have a proper honest local plumber!

Could also be done by most handymen too.

Tony

 

[Sleebagz]

In between the nut and the end of the pipe is what's called an olive, it's a copper or brass ring that creates the watertight seal between the nut, the T and the pipe. This is usually compressed onto the pipe and will stop you just pulling the nut off.
So you either cut the olive off or cut the middle of the pipe, to get the nut off, it's just sometimes easier to cut the pipe when it's that size.

You then use that nut, pop the blank into it and then tighten onto the T.

I'm tempted just to screw the blanking cap I have on the end of the whole lot and be done with it for sheer ease, but I'm gonna try one last time to get my head around this.... I'm so confused!!!!!!!

So this 'olive', is it underneath the nut that's screwed onto the T? Or under neath the silver part on the right hand side? I presume when you say cut the pipe you mean the section of 2cm copper pipe that's between the nut on the left and the silver valve on the right?

If I cut there, unscrew the nut on the left, how does the remaining piece of copper pipe that disappears inside the T through the nut come away with the nut, is it loose or somehow attached to the T?

I will not let this beat me!!!