Wattage limit in lamp

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If the max is a 60w permitted in a lamp fitting, can you use an 18w low energy bulb (being the equivalent to 100w halogen)?
 
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Yes. The maximum is due to the heat created, so it is the actual power used which matters, not what it is equivalent to.
In theory you could use a 60w low energy lamp, which would be the equivalent of about 300w incandescent.
 
Or probably even bigger, as less of the energy consumed is given off as heat.
 
does this not depend on the manufacturers reccomendations?? I have seen alot in the sheds with
"60W max or energy saving equivilent" written inside, but I havre also seen
"60 Watt Max, 11W CFL"

whislt these may be rediculous restriction for the reasons given previously, they should be adhered to?
 
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i would suggest the "or equivilent" will be because off physical size sticking out the top for example or to much light spoiling the expected effect
 
Or possibly the weight being too much, particularly with horizontally mounted lamps?
 
It's this light: http://www.lightingstyles.co.uk/Cei...Pendant-Lights/Opal_glass_ball_pendant(1).htm

I have 3 for over a pool diner table - didn't want conventional pool/snooker table lights with exposed bulbs as wife hates them and look too much like what they are ie. out of place when using for dining. But being diffused, I don't think I'll get the full 60w (standard for the 3 lamps on a pool table). The worst thing is to be playing with not enough light. Will the diffused glass cut much wattage out? If not I'll leave as is, but if it will that's why I wondered about low energy and upping the watts to get more like 100 per lamp. Ideally need to be dimmable bulbs too as don't wanna be eating with shades on! :)
 
Ban CFLs under Health & Safety legislation because they give me a headache.

I even have a CFL that always takes approx. 1 second to illuminate once energised (and another 20 minutes to become brightish).
 
Use CFL's that will fit.

Better to use x4 to calculate equivalent brightness IMO (eg 15w CFL = 60w filament)
 
Ban CFLs under Health & Safety legislation because they give me a headache.

I even have a CFL that always takes approx. 1 second to illuminate once energised (and another 20 minutes to become brightish).
Buy decent CFLs then! Modern CFLs are electronic and high frequency - they dont give you a headache. I have CFLs in every fitting in my house - no tungsten filaments in site.

I bought some cheap CFLs from Wilko and they start up straight away at near-full brightness. If you complain about a 1 second startup, how must you complain about turning on a television??? Or waiting for your heating to get warm?

I have some PL downlights in my kitchen, driven by high frequency ballasts that start straight away at near-full brightness. 52 watts to light a kitchen very brightly - cant argue with this.
 

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