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Yes. The maximum is due to the heat created, so it is the actual power used which matters, not what it is equivalent to.
In theory you could use a 60w low energy lamp, which would be the equivalent of about 300w incandescent.
does this not depend on the manufacturers reccomendations?? I have seen alot in the sheds with
"60W max or energy saving equivilent" written inside, but I havre also seen
"60 Watt Max, 11W CFL"
whislt these may be rediculous restriction for the reasons given previously, they should be adhered to?
I have 3 for over a pool diner table - didn't want conventional pool/snooker table lights with exposed bulbs as wife hates them and look too much like what they are ie. out of place when using for dining. But being diffused, I don't think I'll get the full 60w (standard for the 3 lamps on a pool table). The worst thing is to be playing with not enough light. Will the diffused glass cut much wattage out? If not I'll leave as is, but if it will that's why I wondered about low energy and upping the watts to get more like 100 per lamp. Ideally need to be dimmable bulbs too as don't wanna be eating with shades on!
Buy decent CFLs then! Modern CFLs are electronic and high frequency - they dont give you a headache. I have CFLs in every fitting in my house - no tungsten filaments in site.
I bought some cheap CFLs from Wilko and they start up straight away at near-full brightness. If you complain about a 1 second startup, how must you complain about turning on a television??? Or waiting for your heating to get warm?
I have some PL downlights in my kitchen, driven by high frequency ballasts that start straight away at near-full brightness. 52 watts to light a kitchen very brightly - cant argue with this.
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