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Weight which can be supported by plaster board?

I have used the Timco zip-fit toggles to fit shelving on plasterboard walls. They are rated up to 30kg on single skinned plasterboard, 47kg on 25mm double skinned PB.

I used them after the Interset fittings started to fail, to be fair, I hadn't realised that the walls were double skinned and my Interset fittings were designed for 12.5mm.
Yes I have used these too and like them but the annoying thing about them is that after fitting it is raised off the plasterboard about the thickness of a washer so if you were fixing a block of wood for example it is only (sort of ) held on the face of the plasterboard at the washer area.
So when I can I use a forstner bit to cut away that washer thickness from the back of the wood so that the whole surface is in contact with the plasterboard.
Or if the fixture is metal then I use the forstner to remove a washer thickness of plaster. I know you shouldn’t break the paper but think the outcome of the whole surface being in contact with the rest of the plasterboard is ultimately stronger.
The section the fingers are touching is the bit I am talking about. It doesn’t look much here but does stick out.
bbbre.JPG
 
Maybe they might ask what it is and/or how the name originated.
Of course, any of us would do that, but ....
Is no one allowed to ask questions here any more?
Of course they are - and you did. However, maybe I misunderstood, but you appeared to not just be asking how the word originated but seemed to be being 'critical' about the name (not intuitively obvious) that had been given to the product (e.g. your mention of "Hoover".
 
Maybe they might ask what it is and/or how the name originated.. Is no one allowed to ask questions here any more?
What a strange thing to write. Have you never asked a question on the forum because you did not know something?
The above questions appear to be essentially the same. I've just responded to the first, so that response also applies to the second!
 
Of course, any of us would do that, but ....
What is the fuss about then and why did no one actually answer the question?

Of course they are - and you did. However, maybe I misunderstood, but you appeared to not just be asking how the word originated but seemed to be being 'critical' about the name (not intuitively obvious) that had been given to the product (e.g. your mention of "Hoover".
Please explain how and why you drew that conclusion.

To remind everyone:

1738414867202.png


Why is it obvious?
 
What is the fuss about then and why did no one actually answer the question?
Presumably because, just like the case with you, no-one who read the question knows the answer.

Please explain how and why you drew that conclusion.
Partially because of the general 'tone' of the discussion but, more specifically ...although I personally feel that it is a 'fact of life/language' which is not worth fussing about, I can understand your frequently being critical about the (far from unique) fact that many people use the manufacturer/brand name ("Hoover") of one of the first such product to refer to vacuum cleaner of any brand. Hence, by saying that the present word was "half-way" to being like "Hoover", you appearedto be being at least "half-critical"

To remind everyone: ..... Why is it obvious?
It has never been even remotely 'obvious' to me. Only the author of that statement could answer your question.
 
Toggles are my favourite as they are a secure clamp and don't usually need too much depth behind.

Intersets are good but I've found them to be less reliable than toggles and there is no way of knowing what has happened behind the board, it is essential exactly the right size is used for the thickness and for that matter exactly the right size hole too.

I've known the 'fingers' snap, also twisted round as the screw is tightened which chewed away at the rear of the PB, (hopefully only when fitted incorrectly?).

One contractor we used had no idea there is a proper tool and he set them using a cordless drill making a right mess into the bargain.

These are good too but require a bigger hole and more depth behind (and expensive)https://www.toolfixservices.com/Pro...vy-Duty-Plasterboard-Fixings-Toggler/TOG25030

Why are your toggles so much more expensive than the Timco ones? And the Timco ones are each supplied with two lengths of screw.

Apropos the interset fittings. I have never had a problem with the (Rawl branded) ones that use 5 or 6mm machined screws, the same cannot be said of the 4mm ones. I have had several where the threads in the fitting failed as I was tightening the screw.

My only gripe (that I can think of) with the toggles is that they can be a PITA if there are rockwool slabs behind the plasterboard wall. I find myself trying to use a long screwdriver to push some of the insulation back so that, under gravity, the toggle will drop down.
 
Presumably because, just like the case with you, no-one who read the question knows the answer.
I shall therefore take that as vindication.

Partially because of the general 'tone' of the discussion
That was only because of the snotty reply to my very reasonable question.

but, more specifically ...although I personally feel that it is a 'fact of life/language' which is not worth fussing about, I can understand your frequently being critical about the (far from unique) fact that many people use the manufacturer/brand name ("Hoover") of one of the first such product to refer to vacuum cleaner of any brand. Hence, by saying that the present word was "half-way" to being like "Hoover", you appearedto be being at least "half-critical"
Yet no one knows the reason for calling them intersets.

It has never been even remotely 'obvious' to me.
There you go, then.

Only the author of that statement could answer your question.
Yet he chose not to.
 
Yes I have used these too and like them but the annoying thing about them is that after fitting it is raised off the plasterboard about the thickness of a washer so if you were fixing a block of wood for example it is only (sort of ) held on the face of the plasterboard at the washer area.
So when I can I use a forstner bit to cut away that washer thickness from the back of the wood so that the whole surface is in contact with the plasterboard.
Or if the fixture is metal then I use the forstner to remove a washer thickness of plaster. I know you shouldn’t break the paper but think the outcome of the whole surface being in contact with the rest of the plasterboard is ultimately stronger.
The section the fingers are touching is the bit I am talking about. It doesn’t look much here but does stick out.
View attachment 371347

Good point.

I normally work in houses that have plaster over the boards, and yes I have recessed the collar in the past as required.
 
Good point.

I normally work in houses that have plaster over the boards, and yes I have recessed the collar in the past as required.
Yes I miss - wrote it slightly as you are right the plasterboard has a skim and the idea was to make the recess only as deep as the plaster skim and not break the paper --- but I have done. !
 
"They are rated up to 30kg on single skinned plasterboard, 47kg on 25mm double skinned PB."

I am never happy with such statements.

the words "up to" translate to "absolute expected maximum under any circumstances".
whereas "typically" xxx might well be more useful, if a plasterboard of decent quality is held in place with sufficient fixings and hammered in correctly !!! so an "up to" figure does not give me much confidence at all. The number of times it is actually achieved might be between never and 10% for example.
 

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