What is the best way to connect appliances in a kitchen?

[jimbox]

Because the plugs are unfused, therefore you have neither 2 fuses per device nor the hassle of fuses behind the device. Fuses in the gridplate mean that you can drop the cable size to each socket to 1.5mm².

it also means that you'll invalidate the warranty on your white goods cos you've cut off the moulded plug they supplied it with.

 

[jimbox]

If you have two fuses of the same rating, they will both fail at the same time. You might test and replace one, then scratch your head wondering why the machine will still not run; anyway, you have twice the work and twice the cost.

Surely not? The fuses wouldn't both er, fuse, at the same time, since no two fuses are going to be exactly the same one will blow before the other. However, your point still stands.

 

[kai]

Why can't you use a BSEN60309 heavy duty industrial type plug and socket (it's out of sight behind the appliance), fed through a DP switched FCU at worktop level. neater and safer.

 

[plugwash]

i guess you could if you had enough free space behind the appliance but its not as though the socket is that vulnerable (if you had water coming out of the back of the appliance with enough force to reach a socket a fair distance up the wall then you've most likely got much bigger issues than the socket getting wet).

 

[JohnD]

It's just a kitchen in somebody's house! A 13Amp plug is fine!

 

[geezer]

If you have two fuses of the same rating, they will both fail at the same time. You might test and replace one, then scratch your head wondering why the machine will still not run; anyway, you have twice the work and twice the cost.[/quote]

i see , its not too bad then,but always thought only one would go?

 

[securespark]

Read the building regs on these issues - they also mention the need to site outlets far enough away from appliances so they are in little danger of being splashed should something go wrong.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

it also means that you'll invalidate the warranty on your white goods cos you've cut off the moulded plug they supplied it with.

Old wive's tale.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Why can't you use a BSEN60309 heavy duty industrial type plug and socket (it's out of sight behind the appliance), fed through a DP switched FCU at worktop level. neater and safer.

You have a very strange notion of "neat"

 

[jimbox]

it also means that you'll invalidate the warranty on your white goods cos you've cut off the moulded plug they supplied it with.

Old wive's tale.

Companies will do anything to get out of honouring the warranty.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

They may try it on, but anybody who lets them get away with that is a fool - the plug is not part of the appliance. All that would be needed would be a firm statement telling them that you won't accept such behaviour.

And anyway - my experience is that if you buy quality appliances from reputable manufacturers they don't try to weasel out of their obligations...

 

[Pensdown]

It's just a kitchen in somebody's house! A 13Amp plug is fine!

I was begining to wonder when time would be called

 

[jimbox]

They may try it on, but anybody who lets them get away with that is a fool - the plug is not part of the appliance. All that would be needed would be a firm statement telling them that you won't accept such behaviour.

And anyway - my experience is that if you buy quality appliances from reputable manufacturers they don't try to weasel out of their obligations...

The plug is supplied with the appliance, i think they could argue it is part of it. Anyway if you're changing it for a non-fused type they are bound to give you gip about it!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

My design is no different in function from an FCU with a flex outlet. They may try to make a fuss, but they just need to be slapped down.

Phrases like "OK, then - find a qualified forensic egineer prepared to testify in court as an expert witness that moving the fuse from the plug to an accessory on the wall was the cause of the fault" would do the trick.

It's just a kitchen in somebody's house! A 13Amp plug is fine!

If it's behind the appliance, under a worktop, it does not comply with the regulations.

If it's above the worktop it looks ugly.

 

[JohnD]

It's just a kitchen in somebody's house! A 13Amp plug is fine!

If it's behind the appliance, under a worktop, it does not comply with the regulations.

What, with the labelled DP isolator above the worktop? For a fridge????