What's The Point Of Slot-Head Screws?

You had to have been there

lol, i was, believe me.... but i don't use a bread knife anymore, or a starting handle on my car, or a typewriter, or mangle, or... i could go on for days....

i love how it was, but i also love how it is....a power drill and a box of pozidrives... bring it on !!


We don't use HORSE whips anymore either!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
A good selection of well fitting cabinet screwdrivers that have been filed to fit the slots, all part of the art of being a carpenter ,I should think at least 30 -40 different sizes should do it
Interesting - how about filing screw threads so they fit the slot perfectly? That would be particularly devillish - bespoke screws. :shock:
 
My tip for the day, we have pine furniture, so far so good, the nobs on the drawer are held in place by a screw, the nob came off in my hand, not a very good screw, :lol: :lol: so i drilled the hole in the nob to 6mm and fitted a red rawl plug, sorted, jobs a good un..  8)

I haven't put a patent on this fix yet, i trust if you adopt it you'll send me loyalties.. :P :P
 
The point of slot head screws is....... the other end.
 
I find screws with hexagonal openings (as for Allen keys) provide a very definite contact when using an electric drill/driver.

Incidentally, I found it interesting when I discovered (a long time ago, I should add) that the original screws were designed only to be unscrewed! They were inserted by being hit with a hammer and the thread and cross head was there just for the convenience of removal. From that came the slang name 'Birmingham screwdriver' = hammer.

A hammer has always known as a Manchester screwdriver .
A hammer is known as a brummie screwdriver as well.
 
I treated myself to a new set of Stanley screwdrivers a few weeks back and so far I havn't come across one pozi or phillips screw that they fit correctly. My ten year old screwdriver always comes to the rescue.

Bahco are the best fit....
 
Perhaps Stanley are putting all their efforts into snazzy workwear They used to make ace heavy cabinet screwdriners and would take a fair bit of abuse
 
I have recently bought wood screws with torx sockets. Whether with a power tool or a manual driver, there is no slippage or camming out, (or so far-anyway). I wonder if this will become the "de-facto" standard?
 
I have recently bought wood screws with torx sockets. Whether with a power tool or a manual driver, there is no slippage or camming out, (or so far-anyway). I wonder if this will become the "de-facto" standard?

I agree. Torx, and the hex sockets I mentioned earlier, are probably the best options to prevent cam-out. If screws of all sizes were readily available with such sockets, I'd buy nothing else.

Incidentally, I found it interesting to read that Philips screws were designed to cause cam-out in order to prevent over-tightening.
 
what about those stupid security screws that have a little pip in the middle so that an average Joe bloke cannot open a toaster or a kettle to repair!

What a pathetic idea and unnecessary expense in using such screws, because after all, you only need a straight bladed screwdriver of the right width and you can still open these so called security screws! what a waste of time!

I repair loads of these little gadgets for people, apart from a little inconvenience of carrying various widths of flat balded screwdrivers, I have not yet been defeated in opening these screws!

You can in fact dislodge that little pip with a small driver, and then use an ordinary hex driver, if say you still couldn't manage to open it with a right fitting straight screwdriver, I also open a lot of recesses hex screws with just a flat bladed screwdriver.
 
what about those stupid security screws that have a little pip in the middle so that an average Joe bloke cannot open a toaster or a kettle to repair!

What a pathetic idea and unnecessary expense in using such screws, because after all, you only need a straight bladed screwdriver of the right width and you can still open these so called security screws! what a waste of time!

I repair loads of these little gadgets for people, apart from a little inconvenience of carrying various widths of flat balded screwdrivers, I have not yet been defeated in opening these screws!

You can in fact dislodge that little pip with a small driver, and then use an ordinary hex driver, if say you still couldn't manage to open it with a right fitting straight screwdriver, I also open a lot of recesses hex screws with just a flat bladed screwdriver.

Hey Mike, it's much easier to get a 'security bit set' off ebay for less than a £fiver.
They have all the drivers you could possibly need.
 
what about those stupid security screws that have a little pip in the middle so that an average Joe bloke cannot open a toaster or a kettle to repair!

What a pathetic idea and unnecessary expense in using such screws, because after all, you only need a straight bladed screwdriver of the right width and you can still open these so called security screws! what a waste of time!

I repair loads of these little gadgets for people, apart from a little inconvenience of carrying various widths of flat balded screwdrivers, I have not yet been defeated in opening these screws!

You can in fact dislodge that little pip with a small driver, and then use an ordinary hex driver, if say you still couldn't manage to open it with a right fitting straight screwdriver, I also open a lot of recesses hex screws with just a flat bladed screwdriver.

Hey Mike, it's much easier to get a 'security bit set' off ebay for less than a £fiver.
They have all the drivers you could possibly need.

I got some from Maplin.
 
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