Which kitchen units on a budget

Got a bit more done on this project.
The 900mm hood has a 150mm extract outlet and my biggest core drill is 127mm, so not wishing to buy a new core drill for 1 hole I elected to suffer a bit of arm ache by cutting the inner hole with a pad saw
Its plaster and soft block so not too hard to do, just took a while to get round the circle. Doing it that way also meant I could have the vac hose up against the hole to stop the dust going everywhere.
The outer hole was done with my core drill then stitch drilled to size.

Turned out really good size wise with only 5mm clearance around the tube to seal when finished.
I have in the past had trouble using the 127mm core drill on hard brick as the pilot drill bit chews the hole out before the core has cut far enough to keep centered. This time I cut a small block of timber, drilled a pilot size hole in it and screwed this to the brickwork over the existing pilot hole, this meant the core drill couldn't wander while getting a good bite into the brick. Shall use this trick in future as it worked well.

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Fitted the dishwasher and the cover door for it, thats the 2nd unit from the left. The sink door and dummy drawer (3rd from left) I drilled and inserted stainless 8mm pins to hold the 2 together pretty much as they had done with the dishwasher door/drawer.

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The plinth is just offered up for checking atm, but I think I will need to space it away from its normal position some as the floor tile line differs from the wall so the grout line will make it look odd otherwise.
Cant make up my mind re the left end filler panel, not sure if to cut it back at the bottom to continue the plinth line or leave it as is?

I do have to cut the plinth lower to clear the dishwasher door when opened & I am thinking at buying some clear plinth to floor sealing strips. The bottom of the plinth does have a white plastic strip stuck on it but I guess any spillage may get past that easily?

The worktop in the pics is just some old spare bits, the finished one will be gloss black granite laminate.

We removed a radiator when knocking through to the new extension and just got around to refitting a rad, the original was long and low under the window. Only had a small 600mm wide space so this was the best solution without going to the expense of a designer rad. 500mm wide and 900mm tall double.

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I have a filler to make up for the corner where I altered the cabinet spacing to allow for drawers on both sides and the tall unit has to be removed, the outer end panels cut to size and I have some handles yet to fit, but its getting more like a Kitchen now.

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With the tall cabinet out of the way I can be more flexible when mitering the worktops, cut the female on the window wall, fit in place then cut the male on a full length and if its not correct go again knowing I have plenty spare. Once its right I can cut for length then refit the tall unit.

The electrics are now all finished, electric double oven waiting to go in, gas pipework installed & gassafe plumber lined up to connect both ends once the worktops in place for £75.

I still have the pelmet and cornice to cut and fit, I have a sliding mitre saw so I am hoping that wont turn into a drama, I need to order some mitre glue for that job.

The hot and cold supplies are run through to the sink base unit but until I have the sink fitted I cant cut through the wall for the waste as i'm not quite sure where all the wastes will end up from a bowl and a half, so not quite finished making a mess yet.

Any tips or hints on any of the above taken willingly :)
 
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Well time for a big update, I have added dates when bits were done.
I cut all the cornice and pelmet mitres with my sliding mitre saw, had to make a jig to join them using mitremate as that stuff goes off in 10 seconds or less and trying to do it freehand was just too tricky for me.
Anyway got them all done and mostly fitted, had to leave 1 joint for later as I needed to be able to remove the tall oven unit to aid the worktop fitting.

Today Sun Jan 24th was worktop mitre cutting day...never done one before, got a friend round who had and between us we went to it.
First one was the under window length with a female joint, wall not square in the corner so scribed that end and attempted to cut it with my skill saw, that didnt end well with the top upmost chipping out. Still got plenty of spare on the length so plan B use the jig saw with an edge guide. Nope that was impossible to keep on a line and it scratched
the worktop even with masking tape on the surface. The metal shoe on my Bosch jig saw picked up somehow and scratched the surface through the tape so I need to investigate fitting something to the base to make it smooth for next time.
So out with the router to trim the scribed edge again, 3rd time lucky and near 2hrs into the job and we havnt got half a joint cut yet!

Offered up the worktop and it seems ok so on with cutting the female joint, jig on, shiney side up and all clamped up. First pass at 8mm and 3 nasty sounds from under the router, finish the cut and look to find the bit has bounced and taken what looks like too much for even a finish pass (+1mm) in 3 places. How we have no idea but it did. Finished the passes and did the finish cut and sure enough its still got 3 nibbles showing. Now as this means this worktop length is now useless we elect to remove the pins and carefully reposition the jig 1mm further back on the worktop and run another finish pass over it to clean the nibbles. This worked and its now a nice clean finish, but we need to try and replicate the +1mm on the male later.
If it doesnt work we have lost nothing as this length is fit for nothing else anyway and the male worktop is 1mtr too long so we can always recut the male as needed many times without running out of spare

I am told it seems there has been a shortage of suitable material for making chipboard and old windowframes complete with bits of nail and solids like oak have been used. I can only assume that the router hit something like this causing the error, or maybe it was operator error!

So onto the long length with a male joint, We jigged up to cut a standard male, cut and finished that then removed the pins from the jig and moved it over 1mm and recut so it just cut the front edge but not the main width. Fingers crossed and offer it up....yes it fits fine. Its now 5hrs since the start of this epic.

We then while its all butted up marked and cut the worktop to length, no dramas on this one.
Marked the underside of the joints for where we can get the toggle clamps to fit, hmmm can only get 2 in as its an 800 base with drawer and there is just no room to fit 3 toggles.

Last mini drama after cutting the toggle rebates is we noticed that the chip was not very dence at the very back of the male joint cut and that the laminate is curling up slightly by maybe .5mm in th last 30mm, not sure how I will deal with that when it comes time to colourfill the joint or if I ought to maybe try something like a hacksaw blade through that back corner a few mil below the laminate then fill the gap with a glue of some sort and clamp with a block to hopefully level the laminate?
7hrs now!

My next task is to try and cut out the hob and sink sections from the worktops. The gas hob shouldnt be too much of a problem as its in a 600 unit and I should be able to cut it in situ and fit the hob without moving the worktop much.

The sink may cause me some grief though as it bridges across from a 600 unit to over a dishwasher, so even if I remove the dishwasher I am going to have to be inventive to cut the lengthways slots as they pass over the end side of the 600 unit.
I have been warned not to try cutting the long slot out on workbenches as the very small amount of worktop left front and back of the cuts will cause the worktop to snap when moved back to its units.

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A bit more done todayTues 26 Jan.

Taped up the worktop and measured for the cutout, must have checked the measurements 10 times, just to be sure!

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We have all seen a sink but here it is anyway.

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Because its a bowl and a half its going to be hard up against the unit side to fit in a 600 unit and the front rail is going to have to go for now.

Getting the cut out part out was a bit of a fiddle and I did need to get inventive to hold it in place while I did the last cuts to stop it snapping or dropping. A bolt with washers through the drilled corner holes worked well.

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Cut out removed and sink tried in the hole, a bit too tight so had to take another 2mm off one side. Now it fits all tape and hardboard removed and 2 coats of ext pva applied. First was watered down some to get it to soak in.

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I will move on to the hob tomorrow, just hope the blades last, dug out a part nail from the cut edge on the sink cuts today and the sparks were letting me know there was more than just that one bit.

I need to face the ends of the lengths of worktop before I get carried away and fit the sink and hob.

Fri 29 Jan. Had to recut the sink cutout, there was no supplied template and I had erred on the side of caution and made it 5mm too small for comfort so had to go at it again for my pain, the sink now sits in the hole nicely so it was re-pva'd ready for sink fitting once the wastes etc are sorted.

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Next was the hob cutout, that went ok. More metal bits and sparks while cutting, 3 blades later and its done. 2 coats of Ext PVA and lined with heat resist tape to keep within regs.

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Trimmed worktop end strips to fit, impact adhesive applied and fitted them, waited overnight before trimming to size, they look fine.

Off to B&Q with my 15% discount voucher and bought the waste parts needed. They do their own kit in the kitchen section in silver, looks manky and is £20. Go to the plumbing section and enough marley parts to do the job is £12. Looks much nicer too.
Wanted some more sink clamping clips as I only got 10 with mine, had to buy a pack with a seal in as well to get the clips grrrrr.

Fitted the waste and overflow, dishwasher waste is quite tight to the side panel but it will go, just.

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As you can see I tried to cut the worktop and the front rail in one go, whoops it snapped out. No matter once I cut the rail back to size it will hide the damage.

Next job is to fix down that section of worktop, fit the sink clips and seal it down, thinking of using plumbers mait for that to aid the foam seal they supply, core the waste hole out, then fit the tap and make the connections.

I then need to colourfill and clamp the 2 worktops together before I can fit the hob in place.

Good job we have a working kitchen as doing the odd 1-2hrs is really slowing the job down.

Sat Jan 30. More progress!!

I fitted the tap to the sink and used 2 foam seals around the sink to seal it down, didnt use the plumbers mait as I thought it would get too messy trying to clean up the overspill.
I may once its in use, if it seems like dirt is getting under the lips of the sink use some clear silicone around it to sort it.
Used the 16 clips I had to clamp down the sink, had a couple of the clips fail on me. where the screw didnt follow the path its meant too and it pops the clip in half then, 14 will hold it ok though I can see why others silicone them down instead, saves the neck ache laying in units trying to do the little sods up.

Marked the wall and core drilled a 50mm hole through for the waste, that ended up harder than it should have as the core kept picking up the insulation and wrapping it around itself causing the clutch to activate on the drill. I was trying to core it out from the inside only in one pass. In retrospect maybe it would have been easier to go from both sides and not have to deal with the insulation.

Refitted the dishwasher and altered the pipework to include it and piped in the tap supply too.
Test run the tap to get rid of the air and check for leaks, not got a waste to the drain yet as I need to move a rainwater down pipe first to get access to the drain cover. Thats a weekday job.

Just need to fix this one worktop down to the units in a few places now and cut a back cover panel to hide some of the pipework and its done, oh and fit the plinth.

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Might see if I can pluck up the courage to colourfill and clamp these 2 together Sunday, im told the 20mins workable time is actually around 10 so better get my skates on

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Feb 1st. Well its looking a lot closer now.

Joining the worktops....

Such a silly place to have a joint! an 800 unit trying to make out its a corner unit with a drawer rail just where the joint bolts go.

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So I made up a couple of hardboard and timber "helpers" to keep one end of the toggles in the right place all the time leaving me just the nut end to deal with.

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With a ratchet spanner on each it was easy to pull them together and watch the colourfill squidge out the top. I used a cut up credit card to scrape off the excess.
Try as I might I couldnt get an invisible joint, I didnt want to overtighten the toggles, looks like no gap but the joint line shows lighter grey than the surrounding worktop. Maybe tomorrow I will try a wipe over with more colourfil or maybe not.

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The camera flash really does highlight the joint line, in reality its not nearly as visible as this.

I must remember to slacken off the joint bolts a little tomorrow.

I fitted the gas hob and moved the tall oven unit back into its place, lots of fettling to do now, but at least it almost looks finished.

I need to join 2 lengths of plinth as near as possible to invisible to keep the wife happy....

Plinth just laid in place for the moment.

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Feb 5. Very small update, double oven is in and working. Wife is pleased though the week I have waited (and still waiting) for the plumber to come and connect the gas pipe to the hob is spoiling the fun some.

Dishwasher has been test run that works.

The old kitchen sink unit has come out and I spent time today re plumbing all the water in the old kitchen so the washing machine can have a new home and the old worktop can have further use on a side wall for now.
The plinth lengths I have are all bowed, thought the floor was out but its not, they seem to have changed shape where the white protector strip is fitted to the bottom. Looks like I will have to run them all through the table saw before fitting and use plinth sealing strips on them.
I have a 4mm sheet of black granite laminate to trim to 900 x 780mm and I gave it a test with the router today. Seems to leave a nice edge, so I will trim within 2mm of correct with a jigsaw then finish with the router.

Have yet to choose tiles for the splashback, so must get around to that this weekend.
My friend came round and viewed the worktop joint, says its fine, in fact better than his turned out. So I'm happy to leave it as is.
 
Feb 6. Right its finishing touches time and I need some suggestions please.

I cut down a 4mm sheet of black granite laminate for a splashback, but cant make up my mind if it looks good or not, the alternative is 0.9mm stainless steel with folded edges on a 7mm MDF backing board. I could actually have the s/steel made to fit flush against the sides of the wall units
I intended to fit a 20mm stainless rod I have across the top back of the splashback with butchers hooks on for cooking utensils to hang on.

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We have been warned against stainless as its such hard work to keep looking nice behind a hob, seems they show every little mark.

We went around the sheds today looking for tiles, I have room for 2 rows of 4" and a finishing strip below the sockets, I thought maybe glossy red tiles but everything seems to be beige, time to try a real tile shop I guess. I wonder if a black upstand would look nice or if its just too much black.
 
Wow. What a nice job. I'll be buying my own place soon, and refitting the kitchen will probably be high on the agenda. I'll certainly take some lessons from this.
 
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Superb job.

I have nearly finished mine and advise not to use mosaic tiles for your splashback or under the units as they are a right pain to get nice and the walls have to be absolutely flat and plumb.

I learned the hard way! :mad:
 
the rail with hooks sounds like a good idea in your head, but in reality that means reaching over hot pans to grab the fish slice or tongs etc... not so clever really..

you could probably get a piece of granite cut to suit for the backsplash..
if you go in person you might be able to talk them into a cheap piece that they've had lying about for ages as it's a small area and they might have a bit that's cracked and too small for a decent length of counter top..
 
the wife and i have gone for a black glass splashback for our kitchen. The rest of the space between cupboard and worktop is taken up with mosaic glass tiles so it seemed to be a good idea. We got a couple of quotes since we need an odd size (920x895) and had two up at nearly 200. There was no way i was going to pay that much for a sheet of black glass that if it were for a TV stand i could get for 50 notes. In the end we found another company that would do it for 75 posted. Looks great and much more reasonable in price too.

Your kitchen looks great, its nice to see someone else going through it all at the same time as me!
 
Thanks for the replies, Darren what glass company was that you ended up using? I take it you are happy with the glass from them?

We are looking for 900 x 780mm so not a lot different to yours, but in bright red.
Its either that or stick with the black laminate I have there atm.

I may see if I can get a price for a bit from the local glass co and get a friend to spray it for me.
 
http://www.dlglass.co.uk/ was the company we used. I actually found them on ebay and in one of the listings it mentioned that they did custom sizes. The site looks a little archaic but they got the glass to us within a week when the other more expansive companies wanted 2 weeks. i just dropped them a message on ebay and they gave me a quote and then sent me a paypal invoice.
 
After visits to many tile shops and getting quotes for glass spashbacks the wife found some tiles she liked so I quickly paid for them before we could have yet another change of mind ;)

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After ordering enough tiles to do the window side up to the sill we changed our minds and thought it would look nicer tiled up to the same level as the other wall, bottom of wall cabinet height, so they have yet to arrive.
The under cabinet light strips are on a motion detector so only switch on when you enter the kitchen area after dusk and time out after you leave.
The light gap under the left cabinet will be sealed off once the tiles are finished and the finisher is trimmed to size.

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Just the tiles to finish and the plinths to final fix and I think its done!
 
Great project Oldman2

I know you did this some time ago but i am in the process of installing a kitchen and have come up against a problem which you may be able to help me with?
I have a fairly large island unit which should have plynth lights that work in conjunction with the plynth lights on the rest of the kitchen, problem is the electrician only ran a mains feed and a cooker hob feed across the floor to the island possition, I did not notice till it was too late i.e the floor was screeded and a latex leveling compound was put on.
you mention in your post you have a dawn to dusk sensor for your lights, can you tell me where you got it or give me a link, i can then run the lights from a fused spur with this sensor... job done....

Thanks Ian
 
Hi

Thanks for that, will try and sort out a sensor, have done some research on Google and there are loads out there.....
 

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