AAAAaaaarghh!!
Competence alert! Competence alert!
FFS...
Competence alert! Competence alert!
FFS...
wickes 150w pir security light
- Thread starter gc1967
- Start date
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AAAAaaaarghh!!
Competence alert! Competence alert!
FFS...
Probably, this is supposed to be a DIY forum.
If you want competence then try elsewhere (Screwfix, NICEIC
)To the OP. Have a look in the WIKI at the very large section dedicated to lighting wiring. It is all explained here
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37582
Erm, TTC, this is a guy who doesn't understand the very first thing about electrical circuits.
He appears to intend to install a Class I light fitting outside, hasn't considered how to switch it, thinks he can somehow power it up from an existing switch and almost certainly has no idea about circuit protection.
The only advice we should really be giving is not to do it.
Too many people think that if they can get it to work it must be okay.
He appears to intend to install a Class I light fitting outside, hasn't considered how to switch it, thinks he can somehow power it up from an existing switch and almost certainly has no idea about circuit protection.
The only advice we should really be giving is not to do it.
Too many people think that if they can get it to work it must be okay.
I understand that a neutral and live wire would never be together FFS
I have read being there is no neutral present I could take a neutral from the ceiling rose to the light
Can anyone explain how to do this and if its possible
Many thanks for your help
I have read being there is no neutral present I could take a neutral from the ceiling rose to the light
Can anyone explain how to do this and if its possible
Many thanks for your help
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How many cables do you have at the rose?
Do you have one cable supplying earth, neutral and switched live?
Or do you have two or more cables with earth, neutrals, switched live and permanent lives? (the permanent lives will be in a block on their own, usually in the centre)
Do you have one cable supplying earth, neutral and switched live?
Or do you have two or more cables with earth, neutrals, switched live and permanent lives? (the permanent lives will be in a block on their own, usually in the centre)
Right.
Run a 1.0/1.5 mm twin and earth cable from here to the switch position.
At light connect neutral wire with the 3 blacks.
Live wire to 3 reds in middle.
Earth to earth.
At switch connect the neutral and the new outside light neutral together in an insulated 5 amp connector block.
Connect the live to the COM of the new switch.
Connect the other live from the new outside light to the L1 of the new switch.
Earth to earth. Sleeve all bare earth wires with earth sleeving.
No need to alter the original wiring of the existing switch (apart from joining all earths up if you are fitting a 2 gang switch).
Work safely.
If we do not hear any more from you, shall we assume that all is OK, or that you have discovered what "touch voltage" means
See? You don't know. A neutral is, by definition, a live conductor. And in most circumstances the neutral would accompany an associated line conductor, except at a switch... something you did not know a few posts ago.
I really mean it when I say you shouldn't be attempting this.
Of course, once done you will test your alteration of the circuit in accordance with Part 6 of BS 7671 and issue the appropriate certificate?
No. Of course not. Assuming it switches on when you want it to you will be happy that all is well.
While I have no objection to DIY electrical work, this is on the assumption that you understand what you are doing and can carry out the work safely to an accepted standard. You have no idea what that standard requires and are therefore committing an offence under the Building Regulations, which may only come to light when somebody suffers a loss in the future. Naturally, you will inform any future occupier of the premises about this and any other uncertified electrical work should you come to move on, so that they can satisfy themselves of its compliance with standards?
The switch is for maintenance, and should normally be left on.
Some fittings allow you to quickly switch the light off then on again to overide it.
Some fittings allow you to quickly switch the light off then on again to overide it.
You should have a separate switch for the outside light.
You shouldn't have to turn on the hall light for the outside light to work.
How did you wire the new cable into the hall ceiling rose?
You shouldn't have to turn on the hall light for the outside light to work.
How did you wire the new cable into the hall ceiling rose?
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