wiring socket in dry lined wall

[ivanm]

hi there
i need to put a double socket into the hallway of our new house, the nearest socket is in the upstairs bedroom, i realize now that i cant just drop a cable down the inside of the wall as there are at least if not 2 noggins in the way.
i don't want to surface run the cable so is there anyway to put the extra plug in.
hope you can help
Ivan

 

[sparkwright]

Where's the second nearest socket/consumer unit?

 

[ivanm]

Where's the second nearest socket/consumer unit?

thanks sparkwright there are two sockets at each end of the both 2 meters from were i want to add the socket, the floor is tiled so not good, there 9is a light switch in the kitchen that is the other side of the wall, i don't suppose there is a way of using this as all i am trying to do is to be able to have a lamp on the hallway table
appreciate your help and advice
Ivan

 

[sparkwright]

If this is a new house, running a cable from upstairs to downstairs could prove awkward.

You could cut slots in the plasterboard where the noggins are directly inline with socket, then fill over. Messy though.

If the light switch has a neutral you could run a 5 amp round pin socket from here. These are ideal for table lamps. You could even fit an extra switch at the light switch to control the new socket.

All depends if there is a neutral. Remember, black and blue wires are not necessarily neutrals.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I think your best option would be to drop the cable down through the stud work, but as you are now aware you are going to have to encounter noggins within the structure of the wall. Locate the noggins, cut out a section of plasterboard then drill noggins to accommodate cable. Then repair the damage. Unfortunately there are no magic tricks.
You will however need to take the feed from a socket outlet that has not already been spurred from, so that will need checking and run the cable in the prescribed safe zones.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

 

[ivanm]

I think your best option would be to drop the cable down through the stud work, but as you are now aware you are going to have to encounter noggins within the structure of the wall. Locate the noggins, cut out a section of plasterboard then drill noggins to accommodate cable. Then repair the damage. Unfortunately there are no magic tricks.
You will however need to take the feed from a socket outlet that has not already been spurred from, so that will need checking and run the cable in the prescribed safe zones.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls[/QUOTE]
thanks for your help
Ivanm

 

[sparkwright]

You may be lucky if the cable between the two existing cables runs horizontally through the uprights. You may be able to pull a new cable in. Not recommended if the framework is metal though.

If the light switch cables haven't been clipped to the uprights, you may be able to use them to help draw a new socket cable in from above.

Are you certain it's a stud wall, and not a solid wall that's been dot and dabbed with plasterboard?

 

[ivanm]

You may be lucky if the cable between the two existing cables runs horizontally through the uprights. You may be able to pull a new cable in. Not recommended if the framework is metal though.

If the light switch cables haven't been clipped to the uprights, you may be able to use them to help draw a new socket cable in from above.

Are you certain it's a stud wall, and not a solid wall that's been dot and dabbed with plasterboard?

hi sparkright
i think the best and easy way is to wire from the light switch in the kitchen to a 5A round pin plug mounted in the hall as you suggested, but can i do this if the switch has no neutral
Ivan

 

[sparkybird]

No you can's (as has been said). This is because equipment needs a neutral for electricity to work

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

i think the best and easy way is to wire from the light switch in the kitchen to a 5A round pin plug mounted in the hall as you suggested, but can i do this if the switch has no neutral
Ivan

no you need a neutral, as has been mentioned, don't take it for granted that a black or blue core colour is a neutral.
The neutral could be at the switch but is more than likely at the light fitting.

 

[sparkwright]

You may be lucky if the cable between the two existing cables runs horizontally through the uprights. You may be able to pull a new cable in. Not recommended if the framework is metal though.

If the light switch cables haven't been clipped to the uprights, you may be able to use them to help draw a new socket cable in from above.

Are you certain it's a stud wall, and not a solid wall that's been dot and dabbed with plasterboard?

hi sparkright
i think the best and easy way is to wire from the light switch in the kitchen to a 5A round pin plug mounted in the hall as you suggested, but can i do this if the switch has no neutral
Ivan

You need a neutral.

Turn off the power and tell us what wires are behind the switch.

If there are two or more blacks or blues in a separate connector block you may be in luck.

 

[ivanm]

You may be lucky if the cable between the two existing cables runs horizontally through the uprights. You may be able to pull a new cable in. Not recommended if the framework is metal though.

If the light switch cables haven't been clipped to the uprights, you may be able to use them to help draw a new socket cable in from above.

Are you certain it's a stud wall, and not a solid wall that's been dot and dabbed with plasterboard?

hi sparkright
i think the best and easy way is to wire from the light switch in the kitchen to a 5A round pin plug mounted in the hall as you suggested, but can i do this if the switch has no neutral
Ivan

You need a neutral.

Turn off the power and tell us what wires are behind the switch.

If there are two or more blacks or blues in a separate connector block you may be in luck.

hooray yes there are 3 blacks in a separate connector block
Ivan

 

[sparkwright]

Almost certainly a neutral.

Next step is to determine which reds are permanently live, and which reds are switched live.

You will need the permanent live, neutral, and earth.

Remember you can fit a separate switch to control the new socket if you wish.

 

[ivanm]

Almost certainly a neutral.

Next step is to determine which reds are permanently live, and which reds are switched live.

You will need the permanent live, neutral, and earth.

Remember you can fit a separate switch to control the new socket if you wish.

thanks for your help
Ivanm

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

And remember that the socket outlet you install from this circuit most be a 5Amp socket outlet and the lamp will need a 5A plug
Otherwise you could end up using the socket for 13A appliances, which will overload the circuit.