Add an extra socket in stud wall?

[rezarf]

Hi.

So the OH just bought a new floor lamp and has decided the best place for it is where there is no socket.

Nearest socket is through the wall in kitchen.

I was hoping I could possibly drop a cable down gap in stud wall for new socket. But I'm sure there is a noggin in the way.

 

[aesmith]

More complex but I'd be tempted to wire it into the lighting circuit, changing the switch to a double, and fitting a 5A lighting socket vertically below the switch.

 

[John D v2.0]

Depending on how fussy you are, you can mount the socket higher. Consider hiding it with a shelf even.

Alternatively if the aesthetics are important If there is a noggin you can knock out a bit of plasterboard just above and drill downwards (inevitably at a slight angle) then you only have a small area to patch.

Are there no other sockets you can run an extension from around the other direction of the room?

 

[sparkwright]

Noggins are USUALLY around 1200mm from the floor.

Alternatively, there may be some power at low level near the kitchens units you can utilise.

 

[winston1]

More complex but I'd be tempted to wire it into the lighting circuit, changing the switch to a double, and fitting a 5A lighting socket vertically below the switch.

So when did you visit an ascertain there is a neutral at the switch?

 

[333rocky333]

So when did you visit an ascertain there is a neutral at the switch?

Where did he say there was

 

[rezarf]

Thanks for info.

Today I'm going check behind the socket in kitchen and see if I can drop a cable down through the cavity. I will also have a look at the bottom of wall as I would think the cable feeding the kitchen socket will feed in from the floor.

 

[John D v2.0]

Don't forget to turn off the mains before you start work. And test that the sockets are really dead just to be be sure!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

stud wall

Work of the devil.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

More complex but I'd be tempted to wire it into the lighting circuit, changing the switch to a double, and fitting a 5A lighting socket vertically below the switch.

If he's concerned about noggins being in the way, surely having to drop a cable from the switch, and possibly from the ceiling to the switch, is more likely to make that concern a reality?

 

[winston1]

Where did he say there was

It was implied when he said he could wire it from the switch.

I take it you are not a sparks if you don't understand that!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It was implied when he said he could wire it from the switch.

He didn't say that.

He said "wire it into the lighting circuit".


You aren't very good at this, are you....

 

[winston1]

You aren't very good at this, are you....

Was that a question? Where is the question mark?

 

[rezarf]

Ok so had a look and the kitchen sockets are connected and also have their own feed.



I checked below and can see cable feeding into the switch for washing machine that is connected to the isolation switch.



There is also insulation in the cavity wall.

 

[John D v2.0]

Interesting, so it seems like your circuit is actually radial not ring, or they are both spurs. Or they are spurs off a 4mm radial.
It looks like someone has left a loop of cable past the plinth socket, for some unknown reasons. Perhaps that is the ring, perhaps not.
One simple option would be to daisy chain the new socket to the washing machine socket. This would limit it from being used from anything powerful while the washing machine is on, but if it's for lights it should be ok.
Look in your consumer unit and take a photo. Work out by switching one at a time which circuit breaker powers the kitchen socket. See if it says B20 or B32.
If B20, you can connect to the double socket or Fcu input side. If B32 then not, you can only connect the fcu output side.