Wiring Sockets on an exposed stone wall

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah well - my bad, I guess, for not looking closely enough to spot that wherever I got that photo had screwed up the description.

But 15mm x ½" do exist.

That looks right - the OD of the 15mm side would be, what - 17-18mm? (I'm guessing the wall thickness would be a bit more than that of 15mm tube)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

it 'self-tapped' it's way so firmly into the 20mm knockout that I couldn't turn it any more to hide that mess from the camera

Tha needs a proper spanner, lad.

 

[JohnW2]

Ah well - my bad, I guess, for not looking closely enough to spot that wherever I got that photo had screwed up the description. .... But 15mm x ½" do exist. ............... That looks right ...

Yes, it does - and, as I think we have discovered, so probably do 22mm x ½" ones!

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Tha needs a proper spanner, lad.

The flank was tight up against the outside of the box. If I had taken one of my 'proper spanners' to it, I would probably have merely destroyed the thread!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

But you'd have had no need to turn it any more, as I'm assuming that if you used a spanner you'd not chew up the fitting?

 

[JohnW2]

But you'd have had no need to turn it any more, as I'm assuming that if you used a spanner you'd not chew up the fitting?

Brass is softer than steel, isn't it?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Use singles.

3 x 2.5mm² gives you a 22% fill factor

And according to my trusty Casio, 3 x 1.5mm² singles 35% fill a 10mm microbore tube. Can't help thinking it would be a PITA to get them in, though.

 

[JohnW2]

And according to my trusty Casio, 3 x 1.5mm² singles 35% fill a 10mm microbore tube. Can't help thinking it would be a PITA to get them in, though.

True. ... and, as I said before, I've certainly put 1mm² T+E through 10mm tube in my time, and even 1.5mm² might fit.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Brass is softer than steel, isn't it?

It is, but why is that a factor?

Surely a spanner on the fitting would bear on the points of the nut? The marks on the one in your photo look like what you might get from using a pipe wrench or pump pliers....

 

[ban-all-sheds]

True. ... and, as I said before, I've certainly put 1mm² T+E through 10mm tube in my time, and even 1.5mm² might fit.

You'd need lube for the latter - according to the Wiki, the major axis of 1.5mm² T&E is 8.2mm. The ID of 10mm microbore is 8.8.

 

[JohnW2]

It is, but why is that a factor? ... Surely a spanner on the fitting would bear on the points of the nut? The marks on the one in your photo look like what you might get from using a pipe wrench or pump pliers....

Indeed, but I was talking about the thread of the fitting, not its body. If, after having got the flange tight up against the box, if I had applied a big spanner to try to get an extra quarter-turn (clockwise) 'to hide the damage from the camera', either the steel of the knockout or the brass of the (thread of the) fitting would have suffered - and, as I said, brass is the softer.

I could, of course, have given it a quarter-turn anti-clockwise, and thereby also have 'hidden the damage from the camera', but I was conscious of the fact that some pedantic joker might then take issue with 'the gap' I had left.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah - I thought you were referring to this damage:

it's all I could see. I strongly suspect it was also what Iggifer was talking about:

What was that compression fitting made off with?!

Thus the suggestion of a spanner was to avoid chewing up the nut like that, not to be able to turn it some more.

And I took the steel/brass comment to be about spanner/nut, not box/thread.

 

[JohnW2]

Ah - I thought you were referring to this damage:

I was - in my post to Iggifer about the difficulty in trying to hide that damage from the camera

it's all I could see. I strongly suspect it was also what Iggifer was talking about:

As above, it was indeed - and hence my response to him.

Thus the suggestion of a spanner was to avoid chewing up the nut like that, not to be able to turn it some more.

Your suggestion, you mean? You don't seem to have done very well tonight at reading and understanding previous posts in the thread.

And I took the steel/brass comment to be about spanner/nut, not box/thread.

You don't seem to have done very well tonight at reading and understanding previous posts in the thread.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Your suggestion, you mean? You don't seem to have done very well tonight at reading and understanding previous posts in the thread.

Oh - I see.

You are right, of course - I mean, why on earth would anybody begin to imagine that using a proper spanner would avoid damaging a brass nut like that? What an idiotic suggestion of mine - you were absolutely right to assume that I meant a spanner would mean you could further turn something you had described as so firmly in place that you couldn't turn it any more.

Especially as it is such an obvious course of action - use the wrong tool which damages the fitting, and then use the right tool to turn it further to hide the damage and at the same time do damage to another part of the fitting.

I obviously don't have a clue how to do things properly, do I.

 

[JohnW2]

Especially as it is such an obvious course of action - use the wrong tool which damages the fitting, and then ...

Weren't me (that I can remember) ....

Dunno - that's the state I found it in, in my box! .... )

... use the right tool to turn it further to hide the damage and at the same time do damage to another part of the fitting.

That's exactly what I said I couldn't, and wouldn't, do ....

.... (and it 'self-tapped' it's way so firmly into the 20mm knockout that I couldn't turn it any more to hide that mess from the camera )