Personally I have always gone for the branded one. Just make sure that whatever you get is a suitable fit for the Honeywell V4073A.
Worcester Danesmoor 20/25 boiler problems
- Thread starter Stevie1963
- Start date
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I think I will follow your lead and stick to genuine parts. Thanks again, I will let you know if replacing the motor worked.
Best regards
Steve
Best regards
Steve
Hi Blagard & Mandate. A big big thank you to you both for your help and advise on my central heating problem. The new genuine Honeywell syncron motor arrived today, fitted and now I have perfecty functioning central heating system at last. I couldn't have repaired it without your help (Unless I had paid a heating engineer a fortune for the pleasure).
Thanks again Guys
Thanks again Guys
hi
Looking at this thread last night, I was most impressed by the help, and wondered if I could put forward my problem.
I have a Worcester Danesmoor 20/25 installed about 8 years ago. It has a Honeywell control box with, what I assume is the 3-way valve mentioned. The thermostat is a wireless one, which I presume talks to the main box.
My problem is that the rads are heating up when the water is on, even though the thermostat is turned right down, and if you look at the boiler front panel, the rad heating side isn't even active. Apart from sweltering, it's using more oil than a Range Rover!
Any help gratefully received!
Looking at this thread last night, I was most impressed by the help, and wondered if I could put forward my problem.
I have a Worcester Danesmoor 20/25 installed about 8 years ago. It has a Honeywell control box with, what I assume is the 3-way valve mentioned. The thermostat is a wireless one, which I presume talks to the main box.
My problem is that the rads are heating up when the water is on, even though the thermostat is turned right down, and if you look at the boiler front panel, the rad heating side isn't even active. Apart from sweltering, it's using more oil than a Range Rover!
Any help gratefully received!
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Probably a stuck motorised valve. Do you have any numbers on the associated valves?
Thanks for replying. The valve appears to be a Daytona MA1.
On the side of your valve is an indicator that shows H M W. If you isolate all power to the heating system, where does the indicator stop?
Thanks for replying and sorry for the late response. I'll check it tomorrow.
Hi, I've just checked and it's always in the W position, powered up or not, which would indicate that the heating shouldn't be on?
Thanks
Thanks
It's most likely the motor has failed, that is assuming the room stat is working OK and supplying power to the white wire of the valve, so check that first.
Power to the motor passes through a micro switch and burnt or dirty contacts could stop the motor from working., so bench test the motor before buying a replacement.
A replacement motor costs around £20 I think or you may be able to replace the whole head for around £45 I think
Power to the motor passes through a micro switch and burnt or dirty contacts could stop the motor from working., so bench test the motor before buying a replacement.
A replacement motor costs around £20 I think or you may be able to replace the whole head for around £45 I think
That's very good of you thanks. I'll check it out whilst the weather's good!
Thanks for replying. The valve appears to be a Daytona MA1.
Thanks for your help on this. Having done all the checks mentioned, I think you're right and it's a stuck valve. Having a new one fitted by someone who hopefully knows more than me!
Cheers
Cheers
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