Worktop blown after 3 months

[DoubtfulDIYer]

The worktop round my sink is starting to 'blow' along one edge and also (slightly) along the joint between two sections of worktop joined at right angles. The kitcen was fitted professionally about 2 months ago.

The fitter says we are at fault because we haven't taken enough care to dry these areas after using the sink. We probably haven't been scrupulous about this but it seems to me that the area round a sink is bound to get wet and remain damp on occasions and the sink and worktop joint should be sufficiently sealed to prevent this being a problem. Can anyone advise me what is reasonable in these circumstances?

 

[^woody^]

Rubbish

The fitter should have sealed the cut edge with varnish or something, and then properly sealed between the sink and worktop

The fact that people will splash and leave water around a sink is something which the installation should cater for

Likewise for the joint

Stick your head in the base unit and see or feel if the edge is bare chipboard. If it is, ask the fitter to do the same and then kick his arse when he does

He will need to replace the worktops

 

[foxhole]

Agree with Woody.

 

[mcluma]

agree with the above

 

[merlin50]

poor quality worktop badly fitted, its a sink it will get wet outside.

 

[DoubtfulDIYer]

Thanks for the comments so far. The fitter says the cut edges under the sink are sealed with silicone and I can feel that using my fingers. Is silicone a good choice to seal the cut edges?
He used the seal supplied with the Franke stainless steel sink to seal between sink and worktop. Is that enough on its own?
The worktop is Bushboard Prima.

My problem is that the fitter is a well-established local tradesman who came recommended. He is positive that he has done nothing different on this installation than he usually does so I can sort of see why he says we are not treating the sink/worktop carefully enough. On the other hand I don't think we have been unreasonable given that it is a kitchen sink!

 

[mcluma]

Silicon is not used to seal the cut edges, the particle board needs to be varnished, twice, three times, to stop water ingress

then you set the sink in with silicon, silicon is not there to protect the cut edges of the worktop

 

[Patochik]

Should withstand moisture/wet - thats the name of the game for a worktop. Check here for detailed fitting instructions for the worktop:

http://www.bushboard.co.uk/downloads/Bushboard Care and Maintenance Instructions.pdf

Ask the fitter before hand what he fit it with and then when he tells you he used silicon only or whatever hit him with this.... And regards to the "we always do it this way" reply, we get this all the time at our business and our stock reply is "I have never put any oil in my car but it gets me to work every day" - sooner or later I will come a cropper though.

 

[lmkitchens]

Surely as most varnishes are water based they are not the correct choice for sealing a sink cut out.

I always seal any cut out with a quality silicone rubbed into the grain.

Also what did he use to join the worktops? I've had previous experience with pva, polyurethane d4, silicone, colourfill and a new jointing agent from bushboard themselves.

Nothing compares to using the BBcomplete jointing compound!

 

[foxhole]

I prefer to seal with foil [lagging]tape, two or even three layers, it provides a continous visible barrier as any varnish or sealant used only has to be thin or missing from a tiny area to compromise entire cut.It's also heat/steam proof and ideal under counter when fitting built in dishwasher etc.

 

[DoubtfulDIYer]

Patochik, Thanks for the link. Interesting that it does recommend sealing with silicone.

Imkitchens, Thanks for the tip about BB Complete.

 

[geraint]

Silicon is not used to seal the cut edges, the particle board needs to be varnished, twice, three times, to stop water ingress

then you set the sink in with silicon, silicon is not there to protect the cut edges of the worktop

absolute rubbish...

 

[gregers]

i seal mine with copious ammounts of water resistant pva,have done for years and touch wood never had any problems.

 

[stevestomp]

I always varnish cut edges or let color fill seal it on mitred junctions, i would not use silicon on the bare chipboard its bad enough getting it to deal a shower! I do use it to seal between insert and laminate top of course.

I am thinking of starting to use sbr bond as its great stuff but not tried it yet.

 

[maltaron]

2 or 3 coats of oil based undercoat on all cut edges usually does the trick.