Worth putting full-bore isolators on shower

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ok, checked out the vid, but will it work in my situation where one valve simply won't tighten as much as the other.
Will the loctite glue it in place and maintain a watertight seal even though it won't be screwed in as tight as it could be?
 
It's not glue. It's a pipe sealing cord, a modern alternative to ptfe tape. But with this stuff you can 'back off' letting you get the connectors in the correct place.

Andy.
 
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ok, thanks, but does this loctite 55 tape 'set' so to speak or does it remain flexible so in years time you could unscrew the valves quite easily?
 
ok, thanks, but does this loctite 55 tape 'set' so to speak or does it remain flexible so in years time you could unscrew the valves quite easily?

no,it's just a nylon thread so won't set hard
 

Andy if you could look at the 's' connectors in the manual:
http://www.bathstore.com/files/KERRIDGE/20007013010/INSTALL.pdf

the male part of the connector that goes into the wall screws into a female wallplate elbow. BUT one will screw into its respective elbow more than the other one will. Maybe the thread finishes earlier on the elbow i don't know.
So, when looking at the diagram the valve part of the 's' connector should be at the bottom (6'o'clock), However, If i tightened both up fully then one would be at about 9'o'clock and the other would be about 7'o'clock.
This would not only make them at different heights to each other, but they would also no longer be 150mm apart to allow the actual shower valve to fit correctly.
If i untightened them both to back to 6'o'clock to match the diagram, then they would be loose and my question was "would the loctite secure the connector (like a glue bond)", but the answer seems to be 'no'.
So, right now, i still think i'm ****ed.

I'm desparate to get this right and would dearly appreciate and advice on getting this problem fixed.
 
Ok so using the loctite 55 on one of the connectors first follow the instructions on the pack which will say use approx 10 wraps clockwise but use a bit more to the inner part of the thread so as you tighten it it will create the seal that you need before all of the thread goes in.

Then do the same on the other one and when tight if they don't line up you can then back up a tad or tighten the other as needed.

Takes a bit of practice as you need enough thread sticking out to get your bar mixer on and not too much thread showing with the finished result.

Hope you can understand that lot.

Andy.
 
Thanks, i understood most of it, i think.
but use a bit more to the inner part of the thread so as you tighten it it will create the seal that you need before the connector fully tightens up
This may sound dumb, but which bit are you calling the 'inner part of the the thread', the last bit of thread of the connector to actually enter the female elbow?
So, putting more on that part builds up a wall so to speak?
Then do the same on the other one and when tight if they don't line up you can then back up a tad or tighten the other as needed.
Back up a tad and add more stuff to it?
As it stands both connectors will tighten past the 6'o'clock setting that the diagram shows, so they'd both need backing up, just to differing degrees.
 
Thanks, i understood most of it, i think.
but use a bit more to the inner part of the thread so as you tighten it it will create the seal that you need before the connector fully tightens up
This may sound dumb, but which bit are you calling the 'inner part of the the thread', the last bit of thread of the connector to actually enter the female elbow?
So, putting more on that part builds up a wall so to speak?
Then do the same on the other one and when tight if they don't line up you can then back up a tad or tighten the other as needed.

Back up a tad and add more stuff to it?
As it stands both connectors will tighten past the 6'o'clock setting that the diagram shows, so they'd both need backing up, just to differing degrees.
Yes

Yes but don't add more and rather than back up both, tighten one.
 
Both will have to backup as they will naturally tighten past the 6'o'clock setting.
Unless i let the one nearest to 6'o'clock go tight, say to 7'o'clock, then backup the 9'o'clock to match the 7'o'clock.
This will mean they are at least on the same level, albeit slight shifted to one side, but only by about 10mm i guess.
 
I think you are getting hung up on both being at 6 oclock.

As long as they are level.

You could get them both at 6oclock if you experimented with the loctite.
 

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