I think you are over-analysing it a bit.
The idea of the offset connectors is so that you can have one or both of the unions out of place a little and still connect the valve bar. To do that you may need one or both connectors other than at 6 o'clock.
What I suggest you do is have a dry run, with no threat tape/cord/sealant/whatever. See how far they go in and where they end up when backed out to the right orientation. As long as you have several turns engaged they don't need to be screwed all the way to the back of the socket - so you also have some freedom to adjust the "in and out" position as well.
Once you know how it's all going to fit, then you can note the position of each fitting before removing it to add the sealing tape/cord/whatever and then refitting it. What the "can be backed off up to 45˚" bit says is that if you needed the connector at (say) 7 o'clock and you turned it to 8, then you can unscrew it that little bit to get in the right place.
The idea of the offset connectors is so that you can have one or both of the unions out of place a little and still connect the valve bar. To do that you may need one or both connectors other than at 6 o'clock.
What I suggest you do is have a dry run, with no threat tape/cord/sealant/whatever. See how far they go in and where they end up when backed out to the right orientation. As long as you have several turns engaged they don't need to be screwed all the way to the back of the socket - so you also have some freedom to adjust the "in and out" position as well.
Once you know how it's all going to fit, then you can note the position of each fitting before removing it to add the sealing tape/cord/whatever and then refitting it. What the "can be backed off up to 45˚" bit says is that if you needed the connector at (say) 7 o'clock and you turned it to 8, then you can unscrew it that little bit to get in the right place.
