Well blimey! Thankyou everyone who participated in this post. Some very interesting points made. It will be interesting for future reference to see how much +/- the bill is. We normally leave both the CH & HW on continuously and use the room stat to switch the CH. However due to the buzzing problem I now switch the boiler off at the isolator spur before I head up the wooden hill. My initial feeling was that as the heating would be on all day the house would be warm and therefore the boiler wouldn't have to graft as much. Once again many thanks
It only makes a little difference, so why not leave it on 24/7, eavryone pays extra for the comfirt, if you travell First Class in a train or a plane, you pay for that extra comfirt, if you want to conserve your bank balance, then you buy the lowest fare, like wise if you can't affoard full time heating then have it on timer, I live and work from home, so have to have it on 24/7, and my bills are only just a little more than if we used a timer, and the hassle of it, and the periods when the house goes completely cold in between, you don't get anything for nothing, even the timed heat costs just as much since it will have to reheat the entire contents of your house, furniture, beddings, and so on, so there is really no logic to this, but by having it on 24/7, using moderate temperature on the boiler flow, you get best of both worlds.
You heat your house to the required temeperature, there after your consumption falls as you are only topping up heat loss through your poor insulated house. If you can insulate your house better, you will save more, but by using continuous heating you get fulll comfirt at marginally extra cost, .