You can get a brass earth stud that you fix into one of the spare screw holes in the back box, before fitting it. Like the brass ones that are rivetted in at manufacture.
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C
ColinJacobson
I wish they had dedicated boxes for this type of loop, like ceiling roses have.
In my case they used 1.5mm T&E instead of 1.00mm. Which made matters even worse.
Yes, but it's no worse than decorative light fittings which use terminal blocks for the loop connections.
C
ColinJacobson
It is a lot worse, when all is rammed in a small box.
I'm sure they used a piece of wood and a hammer to get it all in.They fitted the shower bar mixer upside down.
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As mentioned, it would be expected for a 100 mA RCD to control a whole installation in a TT arrangement.
You have stated the earthing is TNCS.
Is the RCD 30 mA?
Does this RCD control the whole installation, or part of it?
It is a very poor design to have a 30 mA in front of an entire installation, though surprisingly common. Often done to save money money on extra RCBOs and RCDs.
Nothing wrong with feeding switches, if done properly, neatly and with deep enough boxes. As already stated, can make the installing easier or more practical. Though can be a pain fitting dimmer switches.
As you will undoubtedly know, many installations are not wired exactly like a text book or DIY book would show; they are often a combination of ceiling rose method, junction box method, and loop at switch method.
Nothing wrong with that, if done correctly.
You have stated the earthing is TNCS.
Is the RCD 30 mA?
Does this RCD control the whole installation, or part of it?
It is a very poor design to have a 30 mA in front of an entire installation, though surprisingly common. Often done to save money money on extra RCBOs and RCDs.
Nothing wrong with feeding switches, if done properly, neatly and with deep enough boxes. As already stated, can make the installing easier or more practical. Though can be a pain fitting dimmer switches.
As you will undoubtedly know, many installations are not wired exactly like a text book or DIY book would show; they are often a combination of ceiling rose method, junction box method, and loop at switch method.
Nothing wrong with that, if done correctly.
C
ColinJacobson
It was high up so I did not check the rating. It controls all the flat.
But a pain trying figure out what he did.
1.5mm² is better. I never install anything smaller.
K
kai
In the Eighties, it was the norm to fit a 30mA RCD in place of a main switch in a consumer unit - nobody cared back then - it was only in 1992, when regs went against single incomer 30mA main RCD's.
I even picked up a Wylex consumer unit with a fitted 100amp rated 30ma RCD incomer for just a Tenner in B&Q's clearance sale - worth it for the just the RCD alone - it just unclipped from the din-rail, after loosening four screws!
I even picked up a Wylex consumer unit with a fitted 100amp rated 30ma RCD incomer for just a Tenner in B&Q's clearance sale - worth it for the just the RCD alone - it just unclipped from the din-rail, after loosening four screws!
I'm still wondering what CJs friend makes of asking him to sort out a dimmer switch not working and ending up with one of his lights being removed and a cable cut back because it was a bit tight in the back box.....
Presumably you did that rather than replace the accessories with plastic ones.
Did you measure R1+R2 at each switch?
Are you an electrician? I'm only asking as the 1.5 may have been used because it was the correct size for the circuit.
I'm in the same camp as RF. I always install 1.5, as the price difference versus 1.0 is negligible.
I'm in the same camp as RF. I always install 1.5, as the price difference versus 1.0 is negligible.
C
ColinJacobson
1.00mm would have done. In this case 1.5mm took up took much space.
Presumably you did that rather than replace the accessories with plastic ones.
Did you measure R1+R2 at each switch?
C
ColinJacobson
It was a two bed flat. It was not drawing 10 amps through the lighting circuit.
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