Sockets in Kitchen moved after installed too low

If it was my house i would install flush blanking plates, plaster and move on with my life….. if you are concerned that someone may decide to hang a picture under the socket
But it is not correct and is dangerous. I hope you dont work as an electrician for anybody….

If you are tiling the wall why worry ?
Because your cavalier attitude is dangerous.
If you read the article http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ukn...r-electrocuted-in-botched-fitted-kitchen.html you will see that the problem was that a metal rack had been screwed to the wall (possibly a tiled area?) and a screww came into contact with a live wire that should not have been there.
You are proposing to enable a similar situation in the OP's kitchen. :rolleyes:
 
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I think the only answer is to cut out all the work and redo. Having so many joints and little extensions to the wiring is just scrappy, whether it's compliant or not.

If it's going to be tiled over then damage to the wall finish is irrelevant.

Or shorten the legs on the base units. :D
 
Gents , i expected no less………. nothing if not predictable!

:LOL:

Regards,

DS
 
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The first picture has 3 incoming cables (Excluding the ones to the newly position socket), so a taped over joint of that size definitely doesn't look appropriate!
 
Hi, we have had electrics installed into a new extension by a qualified electrician

too low at 970mm and needed to be moved up to 1150mm,
A good example of the difference between 'qualified' with bits of meaningless paper, and someone who actually knows what they are doing.

Kitchen worktops have been at a height of around 900mm for ever.
No one with any sense would install kitchen sockets at 970mm, unless there was some very specific reason such as special low height cabinets or similar.
 
It's all well and good covering the joints up if you're not bothered about having a non compliant installation and the risks this poses, but I've wrecked several kitchens trying to find joints like this which have been covered over and subsequently failed.

Get it put right properly now while you have the opportunity, or regret it in a few years time when your beautiful new kitchen is ruined in the process of restoring your power.
 
Thanks to each and everyone of you, unfortunately you have confirmed my fears and will need to talk to the builder to get the work re done.
the cabling was installed by the electrician and its the electrician that will be issuing a Part-P for the work, this is were i got worried as i really didn't think it was compliant, i know the cables have been joined, crimped and taped but it just didn't "feel" right, as the new boxes now have no relation to the cable run as they ran horizontally to the boxes, the height issue was between the Electrician and the builder so its their issue. Unfortunately covering with blanking plates is not an option as they will be half covered with the upstand.
The electrician has said that he can leave a "note of change" (or something) by the fuse box which explains the cable runs in the kitchen which will make it Part-P compliant, is this correct ?

maybe the big question is, if a Part-P is issued, should i or can i query it ?

Thanks again everyone, you have been really helpful.
 
If I make a mistake, I don't write an essay about it stuck to fuse box.

Get him to re-do it, by running most of the cables under or behind the base units, and no buried joints.

I can see what he's tried to do. He's been informed it's wrong, and done it that way to make less damage.

But it would have been just as easy to re-do it properly, or at least compliantly.
 
Also having the two FCU/spur uinits so close together may limit your choice if intending to fit fancy front plates once tiled
 
Electrical installations (these days) last 50 years or so.
How long do you thing that bit of paper by the fuse box will last?

There's only one option, and you know what it is.
 

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