Bathroom advice

[Snowyy]

Hi
Currently in the process of modernising the bathroom, one of the things we want to do is move the bath supply pipes that run width ways, wanted to cut this in the centre and put an elbow on and run lengthways 1.5mtr but after removing some floor boards Ive found there is a metal girder/beam that runs down the centre of the room, there is a gap between this and the plasterboard measuring 20mm but not sure if it is acceptable to rest pipe on the plasterboard, would there be problems? Could shim the pipe by a couple of mm to keep it off the board if that’s permitted.

The other question is that hot pipe is 22mm copper and cold is 15mm copper so for them both to fit under the girder I would need to fit a reducer to the 22mm, would this create issues with flow rate as if you look at the picture you can see that the 22mm pipe has a reduced on it that is connected to the 15mm hot supply (although I may be wrong and this could go to the sink in the kitchen?). Was thinking of using speedfit layflat (PB) barrier pipe so I can guide it better.

for info we have a combi boiler (Worcester Bosch green star CDI35) I’m not a plumber just a diyer so any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Snowyy]

Anyone with a suggestion?

I've uploaded the pics now

 

[sircerebus666]

Drill a couple of holes through the girder

Is that a shower trap that goes from 40mm to 32mm?

 

[terryplumb]

Can't get my head around what you are trying to achieve ,but here goes ...
Yes the 22mm hot pipe can be reduced to 15 mm ,it starts at 15 from the combi. I personally would only
Use copper pipe and soldered joints ,especially under floor . Pipe runs need to be supported ,and preferably insulated. Pipes resting against wood ,plaster board tend to make creaking noises when expanding and contracting.

 

[Snowyy]

Drill a couple of holes through the girder

Is that a shower trap that goes from 40mm to 32mm?

Before my time, although whoever removed the shower left it in lol

 

[Snowyy]

Can't get my head around what you are trying to achieve ,but here goes ...
Yes the 22mm hot pipe can be reduced to 15 mm ,it starts at 15 from the combi. I personally would only
Use copper pipe and soldered joints ,especially under floor . Pipe runs need to be supported ,and preferably insulated. Pipes resting against wood ,plaster board tend to make creaking noises when expanding and contracting.

Hi thanks for the reply, the bath was a corner bath that took up too much room and needed replacing, now that we have removed the bath we would like the bath along the wall instead of in the corner and as such the pipes are no longer concealed by the curved bath panel that was there. Want to reroute the pipes underneath so that they are not seen, although boxing in is an option should it be more advisable to run along the skirting.

Yeah agree with the use of copper pipe just thought from a DIY POV that flexible barrier pipe would be better as there is wooden joist right next to the metal girder so it would have to bend through both of this and I would want to drill the wooden joist as close to the centre as I could. Trying to get a plumber to quote for the work but worst time of year, I've tried five local plumber and all too busy for the foreseeable but still looking. I didn't want to drill the girder a) because cutting a 15mm/22mm hole could effect its purpose and b) hard. Thought I rested it on something very thin under the girder that would prevent the plaster board creaking when expanding and contracting and that it would be supported by the snug fit though the joists until its final destination

 

[terryplumb]

If you intend tiling walls ,You could save a lot of grief and graft by boxing in and tiling over.

 

[Madrab]

Yup, as mentioned previously, I'd be drilling the beam.

 

[Snowyy]

If you intend tiling walls ,You could save a lot of grief and graft by boxing in and tiling over.

We intend to tile the walls and boxing in would make sense to save on the work especially as there are some radiator pipes there that feed the next room. We want to move the radiator as well so the boxing in could hide the pipe work for this as well. Not sure how the boxing in would look as wouldn't be able to go from one end of the wall to the other due to the door. See below picture