Replacing Siemens RCR10 receiver with a Hive

[Squid_Lemon]

Old Siemens reciever https://i.imgur.com/5nzTFkW.jpg

New Hive https://i.imgur.com/lqLys57.jpg

I wired this up yesterday but no lights came on at all, checked the wiring and it all looks fine, figured it was a faulty receiver but not sure.

One thing I'm thinking is that I know the siemens receiver doesn't have polarity so is it possible that L1 and LX are wired the wrong way - not an issue, but when I wired the hive this assumption blew the circuit board because it was backwards? Does this make sense?

Hive have sent a replacement out to me, but I'm wary to rewire the same way in case it was my fault and it happens again.

Any ideas?

 

[stem]

Siemens L1 and LX and Hive 1 & 3 are just an on / off switch. In both cases the terminals are electrically connected together when the device switches 'on' So, from a functional point of view, it doesn't matter which way around the wires go. However, convention says that LX and Common (terminal 1) would correspond, which is what you have done.

As the wiring looks right to me, here are some suggestions:

1. Make sure that you have the correct version of the Hive receiver. You should have the 'single channel version' with only one button and light at the bottom marked "Central Heating".

2. Is there a timeswitch or programmer somewhere that controls the heating? If so that should be set to be permanently 'on' 24/7 otherwise when it is 'off' it will switch the Hive 'off' also. Separate time control isn't required as the Hive provides time and temperature control in the one unit.

 

[Squid_Lemon]

Hi, thanks for the reply.

1. I have the single channel version.

2. The boiler was set to on and not on timer.

I guess I'll have to assume it was a faulty receiver in that case and hope the replacement works.

 

[stem]

Yes, hopefully that will sort it.

Some installations require a link inserting between terminals L and 1. Yours doesn't, but if you tried that configuration at some point it might have caused some damage and perhaps blown a fuse somewhere. Is that a possibility?

As you have the single channel Hive, I assume that means it is being fitted to a combi boiler. So, is the boiler still firing up and producing hot water when a hot tap is opened? Or if you have refitted the Siemens receiver is it now working as it should?

 

[Squid_Lemon]

No never had a link between L and 1.

Yes it's a combi and the hot water was still working when a tap went on.

I have refitted the Siemens (while I wait for the replacement) and it's working as usual.

 

[stem]

Sounds very much like the Hive is faulty then.

 

[Squid_Lemon]

Just opened up the 'faulty' hive receiver and indeed one of resistors looks melted/burned out.

 

[Squid_Lemon]

Sounds very much like the Hive is faulty then.

Hi me again, just checked the wiring to the boiler (see attachments at bottom of thread) and it seems like my Live wires might be the wrong way round - should I swap L and 1 connections on the hive?

L in from boiler (brown) to L on hive

N in from boiler (blue) to N on hive

L out from boiler (black) to 1 on hive

Heating ON boiler (grey) to 3 on hive

Thanks again for your help.

 

[JohnD]

You can add pictures to your post by "copy and paste"

 

[Squid_Lemon]

You can add pictures to your post by "copy and paste"

Hi, I tried that but the photo came up really big and I couldn't re-size.

 

[ianmcd]

just click upload a file on the bottom right of this page , then add your pics

 

[Squid_Lemon]

All photos

 

[stem]

The connections are as I would expect for a boiler wired for 230V control. The two L terminals at the boiler are connected together (so are effectively the same terminal) It doesn't matter which one you use.

The brown wire is live
The blue wire is neutral
The back wire is the live supply to the switch (which does stick to convention & is connected to common 1)
The grey wire (not shown in your photo) will be the switched live to fire up the boiler

The bottom line is that you are swapping one device that requires a 230V supply and has a voltage free switch for an identical device (from a wiring point of view) that also requires a 230V supply and has a voltage free switch.
So if the Siemens worked OK there is no need to change anything. Think of it like changing a light bulb, one out, one in.

However, my big concern is the bad connections with wire whiskers poking out. That is well dangerous and needs sorting.

 

[Squid_Lemon]

Do you mean the brown live wires, I'll tidy that up and make sure to mention it to the gas safety engineer when he comes round next time to do whatever he does to give me my certificate.

Thanks!

 

[stem]

You got it. That stray strand is close to the earth terminal.

Perhaps I should mention that with some boilers to access the wiring terminals it is necessary to open up a room sealed compartment to get to them. If yours is like that only a RGI (Gas safe) engineer should open it so that the appropriate safety checks can be carried out afterwards to make sure that it is properly sealed up again. I suspect your's isn't like that, but I can't say for certain.