Hi all, I'm blanking off a double socket and a mirror is going over it. I'm spuring off the double about 12inches along the wall . I will order a 30a from Wickes in another order I have. I have this big connector block but how can you tell I would have thought it would be written on it.
30a connector block, how can I tell
- Thread starter robpeake
- Start date
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It usually is written on them somewhere, but often very difficult to find/see.
However, to be frank, all that really matters is that the terminals are large enough to accommodate the required number of conductors (I presume 3 in your case).
In order to keep the cable (to the new spurred socket) in a 'safe' (bad word
) zone, the new socket needs to be vertically aligned with the existing one, so that the cable runs horizontally.Kind Regards, John
Size is all that matters, the rating is only a guide to the size of cable they will accept.
I've had a go today, mirror company coming in a tomorrow or Wednesday. Pretty much up to where I am with it. I've got the socket and drywall box in and fitted and just need to connect up the wiring (spur) with the old double socket.
Question for the experienced people , can I leave the blanking plate off the front of the old double socket because the mirror glass is going over the whole space on the wall so it cannot be accessed, blanking plate i bought is about 5mm thick which will push the mirror away from the wall..is that ok?
Question for the experienced people , can I leave the blanking plate off the front of the old double socket because the mirror glass is going over the whole space on the wall so it cannot be accessed, blanking plate i bought is about 5mm thick which will push the mirror away from the wall..is that ok?
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Looks to me that the vertical cable will now be out of zone and that joint will also become inaccessible behind what i assume is a fixed mirror.
Whilst not immediately dangerous it depends how well you want to conform to the regs.
Whilst not immediately dangerous it depends how well you want to conform to the regs.
No, you must fit the blanking plate.
A compromise would be to cut a sheet of metal to fit over it, with the two fixing holes. Maybe even cut the metal so as to recess into the box, then mark it to make it clear it has electrical terminations inside so its purpose is obvious.
A compromise would be to cut a sheet of metal to fit over it, with the two fixing holes. Maybe even cut the metal so as to recess into the box, then mark it to make it clear it has electrical terminations inside so its purpose is obvious.
hi, yeah it will, the mirror company will stick the mirror to the wall. i cant lift the flooring it to move it over either. hmmm this is what i was worried about
Can the blanking plate be just stuck on the wall below the mirror, to mark the zone?
You need to fit a metal knock-out box where your joint is.
Use 20mm grommets where the cables enter.
Connect the earth wires to the earth terminal on the metal box - you may need a short piece of earth wire and the connector block to help you. This will ensure the metal box is earthed.
Cut a piece of plastic around 3mm thick that will fit just inside the box, so it rests on the fixing lugs. Nibble a bit out of the plastic so you can get the fixing screws to hold the plastic in place - this will be your blanking plate that doesn't stick out.
THERE IS TOO MUCH COPPER VISIBLE ON THE NEUTRAL WIRES.
Maintenance free connectors are needed, as the joint is become very inaccessible.
(I suppose the mirror is not much different to a picture, so do we have to worry about cable zones too much?
I don't think anyone is going to drill through the mirror.)
Use 20mm grommets where the cables enter.
Connect the earth wires to the earth terminal on the metal box - you may need a short piece of earth wire and the connector block to help you. This will ensure the metal box is earthed.
Cut a piece of plastic around 3mm thick that will fit just inside the box, so it rests on the fixing lugs. Nibble a bit out of the plastic so you can get the fixing screws to hold the plastic in place - this will be your blanking plate that doesn't stick out.
THERE IS TOO MUCH COPPER VISIBLE ON THE NEUTRAL WIRES.
Maintenance free connectors are needed, as the joint is become very inaccessible.
(I suppose the mirror is not much different to a picture, so do we have to worry about cable zones too much?
I don't think anyone is going to drill through the mirror.)
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ok thanks, can i use a drywall double box that was in the space originally?
like your idea about plastic and cutting it so it fits inside the box.
Yes, using the old box is fine - but maintenance free connectors should be used as this will be very inaccessible now.
Are you using green and yellow sleeving on the earth wire?
Are you using green and yellow sleeving on the earth wire?
ive just put some pictures up, the original yellow and green earth is there (when i took the original picture i hadnt put it in the connection block) when you say maintenance free connectors are those the wago type connectors
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