How to fill void above door lining

[AFT4B]

So I have had door linings fitted and to my surprise the gap above is massive!

The walls are being float and set.

What’s the best way fill this gap?

 

[Wayners]

Easiest is 3 wooden blocks the same width minus 25mm less for plasterboard.
One in the middle and either side or just one big peace.
Got anything laying around you can stack to make thick enough?
Stick to the underside with polymer grab.

Something like that.

Oh. Set wood back a bit to allow for plasterboard hence the 25mm less.

I'm not a fan of float and set on those thermolite blocks

 

[noseall]

So I have had door linings fitted and to my surprise the gap above is massive!

The walls are being float and set.

What’s the best way fill this gap?

View attachment 414565

Float and set on aerated blocks? Are you mad?

Screw a piece of timber to the top of the casing then fix plasterboard to the timber.

 

[Deluks]

Float and set on aerated blocks? Are you mad?

Maybe he's a bit Dence?

 

[phatboy]

I had the same situation. What @Wayners says is roughly what I did. Construction foam as the lintel was rough to attach a length of timber, but left a small gap between it and the door lining to reduce the chances of cracking when door is slammed.
Then fitted 9.5mm plasterboard over the wood, and lapped it 100mm over the lintel and either end, with some Sticks Like behind the overlapping bit. This way the chances of cracking are greatly reduced (And 2 years on nearly there are no cracks). The 9.5mm board should be roughly the same as the hardwall or sand/cement layer.

Good luck floating over the thermalite, we have 1 wall of thermalite that was floated after some special primer from PRB. Still covered in random annoying hairline cracks, wish I'd overboarded the lot now.

 

[^woody^]

Whatever the choice of plaster, it's bad practice to fit [significant] infill pieces to linings as that can cause cracking to finishes from use of the door. Secure large infills to the structure.

 

[noseall]

So I have had door linings fitted and to my surprise the gap above is massive!

The walls are being float and set.

What’s the best way fill this gap?

View attachment 414565

If you go down the wet plaster route, you might as well cut and mortar in another lintel beneath, shorter than the one that is there. Buy say a 1200mm x 65 x 100 and cut it 50mm less than the one that is up there. Saw the masonry and slot it in.

 

[AFT4B]

Float and set on aerated blocks? Are you mad?

Screw a piece of timber to the top of the casing then fix plasterboard to the timber.

I've recently had a small wall done in the new utility, the plasterer used Bluegrit (and of course it was more work), but the result is pretty solid.

My issue is that most of the extension is a kitchen and we've gone to great lengths to create space so reducing it by D&D or battening it out just seems counter intuitive. It seems preparation is the key here.

 

[noseall]

I've recently had a small wall done in the new utility, the plasterer used Bluegrit (and of course it was more work), but the result is pretty solid.

My issue is that most of the extension is a kitchen and we've gone to great lengths to create space so reducing it by D&D or battening it out just seems counter intuitive.

Everything is screaming NO at wet plaster, especially for the sake of 8mm.

It seems preparation is the key here.

All the prep in the world won't stop those blocks from cracking.

 

[phatboy]

I've recently had a small wall done in the new utility, the plasterer used Bluegrit (and of course it was more work), but the result is pretty solid.

My issue is that most of the extension is a kitchen and we've gone to great lengths to create space so reducing it by D&D or battening it out just seems counter intuitive. It seems preparation is the key here.

Mine seemed like I’d got away with it too for the first few months.

I was putting pictures up on that wall yesterday, and decided it will need wallpapering.

 

[securespark]

I've had plastering work done over three door casings and several windows in the last few years, all the bleeding cracks have eventually reappeared.