
Float and set on aerated blocks? Are you mad?So I have had door linings fitted and to my surprise the gap above is massive!
The walls are being float and set.
What’s the best way fill this gap?
View attachment 414565
Maybe he's a bit Dence?Float and set on aerated blocks? Are you mad?
If you go down the wet plaster route, you might as well cut and mortar in another lintel beneath, shorter than the one that is there. Buy say a 1200mm x 65 x 100 and cut it 50mm less than the one that is up there. Saw the masonry and slot it in.So I have had door linings fitted and to my surprise the gap above is massive!
The walls are being float and set.
What’s the best way fill this gap?
View attachment 414565
Float and set on aerated blocks? Are you mad?
Screw a piece of timber to the top of the casing then fix plasterboard to the timber.
Everything is screaming NO at wet plaster, especially for the sake of 8mm.I've recently had a small wall done in the new utility, the plasterer used Bluegrit (and of course it was more work), but the result is pretty solid.
My issue is that most of the extension is a kitchen and we've gone to great lengths to create space so reducing it by D&D or battening it out just seems counter intuitive.
All the prep in the world won't stop those blocks from cracking.It seems preparation is the key here.
I've recently had a small wall done in the new utility, the plasterer used Bluegrit (and of course it was more work), but the result is pretty solid.
My issue is that most of the extension is a kitchen and we've gone to great lengths to create space so reducing it by D&D or battening it out just seems counter intuitive. It seems preparation is the key here.

Always - and from the corner.I've had plastering work done over three door casings and several windows in the last few years, all the bleeding cracks have eventually reappeared.
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