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Just take the plasterboards off on the utility side, insulate and reboard. If it's being treated as 'outside' do you really care what it looks like?

Drill the hollow blocks and fill void up with resin. Let that go off, then re-drill the holes and use plugs / coach screws as normal. Or use resin anchors with a sieve.

Ask your 'Engineer' is this his first time bless him

I am a lawnmower thief. I think the design is excellent.

Doesn't look like a serious issue to me. Plastering right up to windows and doors never works because the pvc or aluminium will move with temperature and de-bond from the plaster. I would cut down the interface with a knife to g create a gap between the plaster and frame, then neatly seal...

You need to post photos to get any meaningful responses mate

What is the building going to be used for? Is it going to be heated? If it will be used for storage or not heated, then you won't have significant amounts of vapour entering the roof space and a breather membrane will be fine?

Your "engineer" is a ******. You cannot use wall starters with a filler board and mastic joint due to the vertical channel. You will need to use individual screw in ties, not wall starters, as these can be poked through the compressible board. Do yourself a favour and fire your "engineer"...

Maybe you could make your own engineering bricks? 1:6 and fire with a hairdryer for 30 minutes on setting 2 will be fine

Maybe you could make your own engineering bricks, 1 to 6 clay:spit and a hairdryer for 30 minutes on setting 2 should be more than enough?

Usually when pouring a concrete topping, you normally need to scrabble or roughen the concrete prior to placing the new slab, but if it's is very rough, it might not be required - it should always be nice and clean and free of dust and detritus though. You should also use a smaller maximum...

What are you building? Extension, garden room etc

Alright ladies, I am planning a garden office build with a flat roof within 1m of a boundary and want to avoid a cold roof and the issues that come with them, especially as I want downlights. I have more than enough 50mm PIR board that I have pulled out of my roof (crap, non-compliant loft room...

2 identical timber sections sat next to each other but not connected wil have double the capacity of a single joist yes (obviously). The degree of connection between the sections is specified to ensure the new section acts compositely. The increase in allowable stress is due to the reduced...

You are correct in wanting to keep the posts off the floor and away from ponding water. Just Google decking post bracket and there are loads of options. Anything that keeps the post off the ground and is galvanised or painted will be fine. The plastic shims will eventually slip from underneath...

Can see why you say it looks like a vertical post has been cut. What does the 'cut' vertical sit / bear on to? / how is it supported?

Wider at the bottom, closes up to nothing at the top. Brittle render / plaster has cracked due to lintel deflection / creep. Nothing to worry about in my opinion.

I think they are called plinth bricks

Right lads, belt up, I am renovating a 1957 brick cavity wall-built bungalow an am planning to remove the wall between the kitchen and lounge as one of my first jobs. I had designed a beam to span the opening on the basis that the ceiling joists coloured pink in the attached plan would be...

At 12m you would normally need one or two (depending who you talk to) movement joints in the run, have you thought about including this? Weep holes would be fine for this basic application, but you need to consider what that will look like and where they weep to, as they will eventually cause...