13 A 1-Gang to 2-Gang Moulded Converter Switched Socket

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I remain happy to fight with the forum software, but would only be prepared to do so if there were something approaching a consensus about content.
The problem with the Wiki on this site is that it is fundamentally broken and unusable.

The wiki itself states on the front page:
A wiki is a website where users can add, remove, and edit every page using a web browser. It is like an encyclopedia that anyone can edit and contribute toward


yet the login and register links are still broken and have been for years/ever, meaning that no one can actually add or edit content, totally negating the whole point of it existing.
 
I remain happy to fight with the forum software, but would only be prepared to do so if there were something approaching a consensus about content.
The problem with the Wiki on this site is that it is fundamentally broken and unusable. .... yet the login and register links are still broken and have been for years/ever, meaning that no one can actually add or edit content, totally negating the whole point of it existing.
Not "no one". Maybe the system doesn't like you :) .

As you can see (click here), I've just edited my 'placeholder' page on safety information. I also successfully updated the 'Part P' page following the change (in England) in notification requirements in April 2013 - so there certainly has not been a problem (for me) "for years/ever".

If you are having a problem 'getting in' to edit/add wiki pages, you probably ought to get Admin to sort it out for you.

Kind Regards, John
 
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Speak to your electrician first, as he might not be happy with testing someone else's work.
Why ever not? How many electricians would refuse to carry out a periodic inspection because the installation is somebody else's work?
But it wouldn't be a Periodic would it? It would be an EIC.
Not if someone just asks you to inspect what they have done.

Whether that would be what they actually require, is another matter.
 
I've used one of those single to double sockets and I would definitely NOT use one again. When it was in use we sometimes found it really difficult to get the plug in, we would have to push it in a certain way and it would take us several attempts. When I took it off to decorate I found out why, the socket used cheap plastic components to hold the metal connectors in place, the plastic deteriorated and fell apart leaving the metal connectors free to move around. If you notice from the pictures, the screws to hold it to the back plate are right in the middle of the pin holes. The plastic screw covers fell off within a week leaving bare metal screws potentially in contact with the connectors inside. It still makes me shudder just thinking about it. I'll never use this type of thing again, it's the positioning of the screws more than anything.
 
I've seen in Wilkos (!) socket boxes with a large cutout that screw into the existing backbox and/or the wall and take a normal double socket. Much better
 
I've seen in Wilkos (!) socket boxes with a large cutout that screw into the existing backbox and/or the wall and take a normal double socket. Much better
$_57.JPG
 
Yes, that looks infinitely better than the one I had, screws on the outside, where they should be.
 
Carry out an earth fault loop impedance test to ensure your socket will disconnect in the event of a fault.
Test the RCD (if your consumer unit has one) will disconnect in the required timed.

Most diyer's will have neither the equipment nor the knowledge to carry out and understand such tests, and while that would mean their work would not be complying to BS7671; one is not that likley to make the Zs worse that what it already is by doing a simple swap of a socket providing that they are careful to ensure a good earth connection. Of course that does not rule out that they could make the Zs far worse by a multitude of ways and thus create a real danger by casing a ineffective earth; and how many DIY'ers over the year have replaced a light switch or light fitting say without complying with BS7671 but also at the same time by good luck have not impeded the Zs.

Now a proper calibrated Earth Loop Impedance tester is better than this, just as this is better than a multimeter, and just as a multimeter is better than nothing.
 
Carry out an earth fault loop impedance test to ensure your socket will disconnect in the event of a fault.
Test the RCD (if your consumer unit has one) will disconnect in the required timed.

Most diyer's will have neither the equipment nor the knowledge to carry out and understand such tests, and while that would mean their work would not be complying to BS7671; one is not that likley to make the Zs worse that what it already is by doing a simple swap of a socket providing that they are careful to ensure a good earth connection. Of course that does not rule out that they could make the Zs far worse by a multitude of ways and thus create a real danger by casing a ineffective earth; and how many DIY'ers over the year have replaced a light switch or light fitting say without complying with BS7671 but also at the same time by good luck have not impeded the Zs.

Now a proper calibrated Earth Loop Impedance tester is better than this, just as this is better than a multimeter, and just as a multimeter is better than nothing.

i agree. i was just trying to educate the OP what would be carried out if they called a pro in.
 

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