16A Chiller

[equitum]

A radial circuit, in 4mm T&E clipped direct is protected by a 20A MCB.

There are two twin 13A BS1363 socket outlets on the circuit.

A blast chiller with a 16A commando plug needs connecting.

As I see it the options are to:
a) replace one of the 1363 socket outlets with a BS4343 wall mounted socket. Is this permissable ? Problem would be adapting the existing metal back box as the wall is freshly tiled..

b) or permanently wire the appliance into an outlet, say a 20A DP switch with flex outlet. Problem: I can't find a cooker switch or twin width accessory rated 16A or above with a flex outlet.

Thoughts ?

 

[electronicsuk]

Is running a new dedicated 16A radial not an option? Clearly you can't wire a 16A ceeform outlet directly onto a 20A radial as the rating of the protective device is too high. This rules out option 1) unless you change to a 16A protective device, but this would be shared across both the 13A and 16A outlets and I wouldn't call it good practice.

If the chiller only requires 13A but is fitted with a 16A connector on account of being for industrial use then you could connect it via an FCU, or you could consider an enclosure with the 16A socket and an MCB built in.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I think you'll find he needs 16A.

If a new radial is out of the question, change the first socket on the radial to a 20A switch and/or 16A commando socket to suit the chiller Disconnect and remove the second socket (spur from somewhere else, maybe?)
Change MCB to 16A

 

[plugwash]

at least according to TLC's guide it is acceptable to put a 16A ceeform on a 20A radial, unfortunately they don't quote reg numbers.

If you want to wire it in and don't want to disturb the wall you could replace the socket with a get rocca modular 2 gang plate (a clone of the sadly discontinued mk accent range) containing a 13A socket on one side and a switch and flex outlet on the other (if you are willing to lose the other socket of the pair you could also use grid plus).

 

[Lectrician]

You may have a radial circuit rated at 20amps supplying bs4343 'ceeform' outlets rated at 16amp. This is the only size of ceeform you may do this with. It is stated in the regs, but have none close by to quote.

 

[equitum]

Thanks for the posts, much appreciated. Will probably see if I can get the double gang backbox out by chipping at the tiles, replace with a twin back box (the type for two singles), blank one side off and use a 20A DP switch with flex outlet, or use the ceeform and leave the OPD at 20A.

 

[plugwash]

why bother getting the box out when you can just use grid plus to get a DP switch and flex outlet on the existing box?

 

[equitum]

Sorry not familiar with grid plus, can you elaborate/post link etc thanks

 

[plugwash]

Grid plus (sometimes also incorrectly reffered to as logic plus grid) is MKs modular system, you screw a grid frame to the backbox, insert modules and then screw a plate on top (mk make plates to match most of thier ranges). It is mostly used for large groups of lightswitches but can also be used for other awkward combinations.

other brands have similar ranges (and some have modules that MK don't for example get rocca modular has socket modules) but MK grid plus is the most common. Different manufacturers systems are not compatible (and sometimes one manufacturer has multiple incompatible systems in thier range) so be carefull to get matching bits.

in your case you would need (links provided for informational purposed only, better prices can almost certainly be found and any decent wholesaler should either stock this stuff or be able to order it in):
a 3 gang grid frame. ( http://cirrus.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK3703.html )
a 3 gang plate ( http://cirrus.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK3633.html )
a 20A DP switch ( http://cirrus.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4896.html )
a flex outlet ( http://www.simplyautomate.co.uk/productDisplay.asp?prodID=4066 )
a blank module ( http://cirrus.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4880.html )