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Its a 1920s build so the other side of the wall is the living room but solid masonry wall.What's the other side of the wall where the switch is?
Its a 1920s build so the other side of the wall is the living room but solid masonry wall.What's the other side of the wall where the switch is?
First point - fair enough, did wonder why it might be going through as thought you would usually just connected your earth to it.That little bit of white wire could be taking an Earth into the switch to use as a surrogate "Neutral" This could result in a trip of an RCD protecting the circuit.
The CE mark is a counterfeit.
surprised as the company are a UK based PLC since 1996 in Oxford.
Correction, a dormant company should not trade. Even if they do, you can only report them to trading standard etc.
a dormant company does not ( cannot ) trade.
So is there another switch in the living room back to back with the 2 gang switch, which may have a neutral?Its a 1920s build so the other side of the wall is the living room but solid masonry wall.
So is there another switch in the living room back to back with the 2 gang switch, which may have a neutral?
Yeah I have, mainly seems the further away the hub, the slower they are to respond. I can put the hub within 2metres and with nothing blocking it.At least read the reviews before you spend money on the Energenie one. It may be that you are prepared for the slow response etc. Don't think I would be. Energenie seems to be a trading name for a company in the Netherlands called Gembird.
Good.AndreN said:Hey Mikeyd,
Same circuit? Yes
Bugger..AndreN said:Ceiling rose? No...about 18 LED downlighters.
Junction boxes? No idea they were fitted new with my kitchen 2 years ago.
I was hopeful, but not so now. As you currently have 2 permanent lives going to the switch from the same circuit, and your new switch only needs one, the other wire could potentially be changed into a neutral if you get to the other end of either of them, and obviously a neutral is within connecting distance. 18 Downlighters and presumably a nice ceiling makes that hard work though.AndreN said:Guessing you were going to potentially say about running a neutral? Won't work I guess!
I've got Philips hue bulbs (Other systems are available) throughout my house. Set off with a starter pack of a bridge and 2 bulbs and went from there. Alexa, my phone and Watch can turn any light on or off, and if it doesn't work the old wall switch still over-rides. Sorry if it's going off-topic (Not as much as discussing CE standards) as it doesn't help you. I don't think Philips do anything that switches 18 downlights but as said, other solutions are probably available.AndreN said:Annoying, my other option is just getting one that works on a remote and not smart enabled I guess and wall mounting the remote somewhere more accessible.
Interesting not seen those before, I'll read up how they work as might be an option.I would consider https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html They seem to work well.
Yeah I was considering smart bulbs but looks very expensive and not sure if they will all sync in one 'group' or not.Good.
Bugger..
I was hopeful, but not so now. As you currently have 2 permanent lives going to the switch from the same circuit, and your new switch only needs one, the other wire could potentially be changed into a neutral if you get to the other end of either of them, and obviously a neutral is within connecting distance. 18 Downlighters and presumably a nice ceiling makes that hard work though.
I've got Philips hue bulbs (Other systems are available) throughout my house. Set off with a starter pack of a bridge and 2 bulbs and went from there. Alexa, my phone and Watch can turn any light on or off, and if it doesn't work the old wall switch still over-rides. Sorry if it's going off-topic (Not as much as discussing CE standards) as it doesn't help you. I don't think Philips do anything that switches 18 downlights but as said, other solutions are probably available.
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