As a matter of interest, I wonder what makes you say say that? For what it's worth, my first guess (albeit with 'no confidence') would probably have been AC.
Ac or dc electric strike?
- Thread starter Daljit
- Start date
I found it on their website, from the model number.
I’ve double checked readings at camera doorbell. Supply comes from video monitor and is almost 24v (see pic). However, when activated, the output from here is 2.4v (see pic). The strike - 3m cable run - also receives 2.4v, no drop.
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You are looking at possibly an amp. Has this ever worked?
See attached. I’ve emailed manufacturer to ask if the output voltage is also 24v.
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The strike will only have the correct voltage when you activate the door release …are you measuring the voltage when you activate the door open button on your monitor ? …also try it with the release disconnected it won’t be voltage drop on that cable at that distance ….more than likely you have burnt out the coil putting 24v dc into the lock release coil …
Yes, measuring when door release is activated.
The old release still works. It worked well with the old Yale lock on the door, and had done for last 4 mths. It just doesn’t work with the new high security ERA lock because the throw is too long.
I’m not convinced 24v is present when the door release is activated. Hopefully hear back from manufacturers soon tho.
In fact, I should measure voltage once release activated after disconnecting old strike to see if that makes a difference. Will try this tmrw.
Electric door strikes are inherently low security.
Using a 'high security' lock with one is meaningless.
What exactly are you intending to achieve here?
I was hoping to do away with the mortise lock, and rely solely on a robust nightlatch. Mainly because it would mean not having to carry keys which my children frequently forget.
Some rim releases state they can withhold a force of 750kg. Although I imagine a timber door and frame would give way well before that.
True but that only applies to the force exerted on the strike by the lock, as in someone pushing/pulling the door.
If the strike can be accessed, it's relatively easy to pry the mechanism and release it.
If wiring for the strike can be accessed from outside (such as via an external cheapo doorbell affair) it's trivial to bypass that and open the door.
Rim latches in general should not be used as the only lock for a door where proper security is required.
If it's an apartment building where there are further locked doors to each apartment, a rim latch and electric strike is usually suitable for the main door to the common parts.
However if this is the primary door to a residence, a single rim latch is entirely inadequate.
That makes sense in the normal world. But in my world, the facts are:
- the children forget their keys, so either they use the garage key hidden under a stone and then use the spare set stored there or more often, someone will leave keys under the plant pot by the front door.
- children returning late at night call to ask for keys to be left out.
- keys left out for family and friends who occasionally walk the dog.
- keys left out for friends & family who cat-sit when we’re away.
For some reason, the family prefer using their mobile phones to unlock the house even when keys are in their pocket. I use a fob.
I fitted the 5 lever BS mortise to our door 14 yrs ago when we bought the house. But I reckon we stopped using it 10 yrs ago.
Perhaps we should use a key safe but are these any more secure than a good rim lock and strike?
Your point about accessing the wiring in the cheapo doorbell is spot on, and one that initially worried me. But then cheapo video doorbells are common now, and a burglar would need to know that mine is connected to a door release mechanism which I would imagine most aren’t.
Did the old one buzz when activated, I always assumed the Ac ones buzz and the Dc ones dont
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