Advice on insulating hipped roof please?

If anything we find it easier to align brackets

... whether after 61 years in this industry, you feel we have the ability to fix gutters after roof covering.

Push those little half-round reading glasses up a bit and re-read my post

If it works for you fine. If I knew that it worked for you, fine.

If I had some untrusted unknown firm, then I would want to know that they would do a satisfactory job, so would eliminate whatever risks I could .... which could mean doing it my way
 
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Thank you so much to everyone for your responses. I am very grateful that you would put all that time in to reply (and quite chuffed that it's stirred up a hornet's nest ;) )

oldun - thank you. Slates are 20 x 10 reclaimed and that seems to be the going rate round here. Thanks for the advice on insulating raised ties. It would be hard to stomach going through all this and still getting mildew in the kids' bedrooms.

How it will all go together is much, much clearer now and I'm glad the prices sound about right - they seemed to know what they are doing. Don't think they usually do labour only but prob felt sorry for us when they saw how we are living at the mo - quote "I've seen some renovations in my time but this is something else".

Thanks again everyone,
Kirsten
 
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Hi All,
Roof structure is up using a joiner friend who seems to have done a good job. Man who measured for, and supplied roof came to have a look and said it's a good job.
We now need to decide how and where to insulate new structure before existing roof is stripped and all is felted and reslated, bearing in mind BC want U-value of 0.16 in new bit.
Photos attached:
View from front corner:

Angle showing how high ceiling joists are:

Inside existing roof - I've put a bit of 50mm celotex in against existing plasterboard slope to show depth we've got to play with.

The conflict we've got is: architect says seal the cavity at the head, put in 270mm Rockwool and use eaves ventilation system. Building control say don't seal cavity, put in your egg boxes and insulation and get your roof on (laid back). Since it is a raised tie roof we do not have 270mm of space where the ceiling slopes, just the 147mm depth of the rafter. From the reading we've done, if using breathable mebrane ventilation is not necessary but we can't have a 'well-sealed ceiling' since the old and new buildings share a loft and cavity is not sealed and damp as hell in the existing.

OK, so in new roof, the rafters are 147mm deep so we could put 100mm celotex in between rafters at the slope leaving ventilation gap. Do we "birdsmouth" the insulation so it 'wraps round' the wall plate and butts up to wall insulation then tape it as per wall insulation? To meet BR it would need to be 200mm though!! We could then put rockwool type stuff in remainder of ceiling even though there wouldn't be much space above it when there is 270mm in!! The Celotex alone would be ££££££££££. Oldun suggested insulated plasterboard on ceiling slopes inside but we were thinking maybe 35mm Celotex then foil backed plasterboard, just cos it might be easier to handle.
Do BC just let you get away with a bit in raised tie roofs as they seem to be problematic? He doesn't seem too concerned, which would be fine except we've had 12 years of mildew on bedroom ceilings so we want it right.

Any recommendations for eaves ventilation system? How do you stop Rockwool closing the ventilation gap? Is this the "egg boxes" that BC officer was talking about? What about eaves trays?

My husband is concerned about condensation in the loft. If it has at least 10mm ventilation at the eaves and 5mm at the ridge, plus breathable membrane, should we be concerned? Do we need to close the cavity to reduce chance of condensation? Can we use DPC under the last course of brick that needs to go on? - we would run it from above insulation and wall plate to under last brick course so it acts as a run-off, or does eaves tray do this?

What about the existing roof? We are thinking 50mm celotex in there since rafters are not as deep or will that not be good enough to prevent cold spots?

So many questions....
We need your knowledge and expertise - if you are able to help at all I would be very grateful.
Thanks and regards
Kirsten
 
what if the gutters have rafter arms and the tiles are double nailed and clipped is it still easier to do after its tiled lol
 
Hi all,
Just updating with what we've done about insulation for any future forum searchers having the same problems.
New extension - 100mm celotex friction fitted between rafters and continuing to wall insulation, all sealed with foil tape and gaps filled with expanding foam.
BCO has looked at all our wall and roof insulation has agreed to let us use 25mm under rafters instead of 40mm since it's so well fitted it will probably exceed published U-values :D


When the existing roof is stripped this week we are going to fit 50mm celotex between the 75mm rafters in the old roof and also run some down into the cavity, compressing the cavity wall insulation that's already in (some has been blown out/dropped during building work).

We've been running the celotex up quite high between the rafters so that it is 270mm above ceiling height and trimming the back of the top edge of insulation vertical to act as a 'retainer' for the rockwool-type loft insulation we will fill the loft with when the roof is on. This will hopefully stop our 25mm ventilation gap getting blocked by rockwool.

We are going for a breather membrane suitable for cold, non-ventilated roofs although still ventilating it - we just want to be careful to avoid condensation since this is the first time our roof will be felted.

A good source of info about ventilation and insulation was Forest of Dean building control guidance for extensions, available online.

Thanks all for your valuable advice - you were right in the end, it just took us a long time to get there.
Cheers
Kirsten
 

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