Alternatives to Dot and Dab

[cwhaley]

Hi all, won't be long before I'm plasterboarding my new extension. I was just looking for a few suggestions on the best alternatives to 'dot n dab'. The boards will be going on new blockwork (typical block/insulation/external brickwork).

I don't want to use dot n dab. I know its tried and tested, but last time I used it on a small bathroom the mixer attachment burnt my drill out (admittedly it was a cheapo one, hence using it). It's also a bit messy and the other half is fed up of living with mess now... doesn't bother me but whatever.

I considered battening out, but I'm conscious I'd be losing more internal room area as the suggestion is to use 25mm timber. I've also thought about the Dow Insta-Stik stuff if this is any good?

Don't mind spending a little more.

 

[RandomGrinch]

Hi,
I've used DOW instastick, but I prefer to use the Soudal stuff:

https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-genius-gun-plasterboard-adhesive-foam/p99304

I find it a lot nicer to use and less messy.
Both products seem to stick the plasterboard solidly to the wall. But with both you do have to brace the boards well while they cure, to stop excess expansion (and gravity) causing bowing.

 

[roughcaster]

Batten, insulate and board.
Dot and dab in my opinion is rubbish.

 

[cwhaley]

Batten, insulate and board.
Dot and dab in my opinion is rubbish.

I always presumed (probably through ignorance) it to be the 'standard' for fixing boards to block/bricks but since I've started looking on some of the plasterer forums I'm surprised to read how many don't like it.

Batten, insulate and board.
Dot and dab in my opinion is rubbish.

I'm much more comfortable working with timber, plus with it being a plumb and level wall I'm hoping it'd be much easier. I wasn't going to insulate as the cavities already have insulation in them and because sheets of insulation seem to be a lot more expensive these days. Just conscious of losing another 25mm with the timber.

 

[cwhaley]

Hi,
I've used DOW instastick, but I prefer to use the Soudal stuff:

https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-genius-gun-plasterboard-adhesive-foam/p99304

I find it a lot nicer to use and less messy.
Both products seem to stick the plasterboard solidly to the wall. But with both you do have to brace the boards well while they cure, to stop excess expansion (and gravity) causing bowing.

Thanks for the recommendation I have used their stuff before for insulation. How many boards were you getting out of one can?

 

[darrington]

You wont lose very much space by using battens and boarding, plus it's easier to fit cupboards, run cables behind it, fit sockets etc etc. With dot and dab, I've seen the plasterboard sheets come loose and they have to be drilled, plugged and screwed back tight, I've seen people having problems fitting wall units, trouble running cables/pipes behind it etc etc.
Dot and Dab is RUBBISH, a very cheap, money saving way of finishing walls internally for the builder, but it can and will make things very awkward/ difficult, and possibly more expensive, for any future project within in the property.

 

[cwhaley]

Oh okay that's taught me something as I genuinely thought it was pretty much problem-free.

Battening does sound pretty good, I suppose it's going to be about 37-38mm lost in depth. My neighbour is an electrician (owns his own company) and he's going to extend the ring, so if I could run conduit behind the board and between the battens to the sockets, plus fit the sockets and switches it'd make his job easier coming to connect it all up.

 

[RandomGrinch]

Thanks for the recommendation I have used their stuff before for insulation. How many boards were you getting out of one can?

From what I remember, the instructions state four boards per can. I put up three and some skirting, but I had a seriously uneven wall to contend with!
Honestly, I would have preferred to batten, but I didn't have the space (I wanted to keep the original Victorian cornicing intact), or the time.
Because it mounts closer to the wall than dot'n'dab, there is less of a problem when mounting objects to it; you just drill a little deeper to get to the substrate.