Bathroom heated mirror - exposed wagos used to make electrical connection

[ahead2955]

Hi
We had our bathroom renovated a few months ago which included an electrician fitting a heated bathroom mirror. I had reasons to unhook it from the wall recently and discovered that the join between t&e and the mirror 2 core flex has been made with Wagos that are exposed. I won't be calling the electrician back.

I don't feel good about this especially with it being in a moist room and feel he probably should have made the join in an enclosure of some sort? I've been looking for waterproof connectors so I can enclose the join but most are too thick to fit behind the mirror (about 25mm depth).

My other thought was, if possible, to replace the t&e with the same 2 core flex as what's used on the mirror. I could potentially open the mirror back, connect flex cable and run it up to the loft and join to the existing t&e there with a maintenance free box).

What do you think? Am I worrying over nothing? Any advice is appreciated!

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

My other thought was, if possible, to replace the t&e with the same 2 core flex as what's used on the mirror. I could potentially open the mirror back, connect flex cable and run it up to the loft and join to the existing t&e there with a maintenance free box).

Is the better way to do it.

 

[flameport]

el he probably should have made the join in an enclosure of some sort? I

They should be in an enclosure, although it may be difficult to find one which is shallow enough to fit behind the mirror.

Another option is a plug/socket arrangement such as https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GKLC20.html

 

[endecotp]

I had reasons to unhook it from the wall recently

Does it simply lift off, or is a tool needed?

My other thought was, if possible, to replace the t&e with the same 2 core flex as what's used on the mirror.

Why? Existing wire is fine.

 

[Murdochcat]

You could argue that the mirror and the wall form the enclosure as you need to remove the mirror to expose the connections

I wouldn’t be losing any sleep over it

 

[ahead2955]

Does it simply lift off, or is a tool needed?


Why? Existing wire is fine.

Simply lifts off - and idea of replacing whole t&e with flat cable to eliminate a join that would be needed otherwise (space constraints behind mirror make this difficult)

 

[ahead2955]

You could argue that the mirror and the wall form the enclosure as you need to remove the mirror to expose the connections

I wouldn’t be losing any sleep over it

Only concern there is the mirror sits on the wall with a single bar/hook - it can easily be pulled forward from the base to expose the wagos.

 

[endecotp]

Only concern there is the mirror sits on the wall with a single bar/hook - it can easily be pulled forward from the base to expose the wagos.

Is that definitely how it is supposed to be fixed to the wall?

It could end up hanging by the cable, which would not be great even without the wago issue.

Where did you get the mirror?

 

[ahead2955]

Oslo Curve LED Backlit Bathroom Mirror - Pebble Grey

Relax and unwind in complete harmony with the Oslo Curve LED Mirror. The backlit illumination contrasts beautifully with the black curved aluminum frame to transform your space into a sleek haven.

www.pebblegrey.co.uk

Installation guide seems to suggest single bar... agreed probably not great but I don't have any prior experience of mirrors and if they're generally supposed to be fixed in multiple places?

 

[pete01]

I wouldn't worry about it but if you wanted to you could clip some of these wago gel covers on them.

 

[Rodders53]

My mirrors use the plug and socket style linked to earlier.
Available from the diy sheds as well as trade electrical stores.
Greenbrook lighting connector in Toolstation and Screwfix.

 

[ebee]

Yes there are at least two common "plug and socket" type connectors, one is green and the other is blue, they are not interchangeable.
One bar or hook type fixing of the mirror at the top end and then at least one fixing at or near the bottom and only removed or slackened with a tool (example a screw) should deter accidental disconnection but allow easy maintainance if required).

You can never make anything completely foolproof but then again complete fools should be banned from touching anything anywhere!

 

[robinbanks]

it can easily be pulled forward from the base to expose the wagos.

In terms of “millimetres of plastic between your hand and a live conductor” you’re closer to death carrying the cord of your vacuum cleaner round

I wouldn’t be overly concerned tbh. Enlarge the hole in the wall some so you can tuck a debox into it if it helps you sleep

Is that definitely how it is supposed to be fixed to the wall?

I’ve 4 like it from different brands. All came with wagos on the mirror ready to be attached

 

[ahead2955]

In terms of “millimetres of plastic between your hand and a live conductor” you’re closer to death carrying the cord of your vacuum cleaner round

I wouldn’t be overly concerned tbh. Enlarge the hole in the wall some so you can tuck a debox into it if it helps you sleep

It's more the fact theyre 'exposed' and likely pushed against tiled walls that are likely to condensate - water drips down in to a wago, potential for corrosion etc etc. It just doesn't seem right that theyre not enclosed when in a wet room. I can't enlarge the hole as its a tiled wall (I don't have the skills to do this) so almost certainly am going to just replace the whole length with 2 core flex but appreciate all the feedback so far

Failing that I'll get some connector blocks as suggested or even the wago gel box thing - I would have assumed a cable joiner would need to offer mechanical grip that a gel box might not give however?

 

[Tigercubrider]

You might be able to fit an additional screw over the top of the mirror once it’s hung on the cleat?
We used to do similar. The screw would hopefully be out of vision at the top and prevents the mirror being lifted above the release point.
A bit of heat shrink on the WAGOS would probably be fine?

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