Bathroom light / heater ring replacement

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Afternoon,
I dont have any photos of wiring etc yet but you might be able to advise from what i am about to type.
Photo supplied is taken from internet but looks vey close to what is currently fitted.
There is also a short pull cord hanging down from it.
Heater ring element thickness looks about 6mm

........................

My neighbour has asked me to remove what is currently fitted & replace it with just a bathroom light as the heater ring element no longer works & looks old fashioned.

Currently there is a long pull cord just inside the bathroom for the light.

There is also a shorter pull cord next to it which changes the text message in its window from ON to OFF to isolate i assume.

There is a short pull cord hanging down from the light/heater etc

Can i then do this.

Remove wiring from isolation switch to old currently fitted light/heater.
With the isolation switch showing OFF then cut the short pull cord flush at the ceiling etc so it cant be operated.
Hopefully the wires left in the ceiling will allow me to connect to a new light.
Job now complete.
 

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The cord on the heater/light unit is usually what controls the heating part, the whole thing just wired in the same way as any normal light fitting.

The other ON/OFF pull cord is probably for an unrelated electric shower, or an old one that was removed long ago.
 
Hi,
Should i pop around & see what happens in relation of the isolation cord in the ON/OFF position & see if the light works ?
 
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Doubtful - light/heater units connect to the lighting circuit just like any other light. Would be exceptionally unusual to have one which required it's own circuit or had it's own separate switch.
 
I will go around there now.
In the bathroom is 3 pull cords.

Short one of heater.
Sort one for isolation
Another which i assume is just for batroom light

Be back in 20 minutes
 
I have used the long pull cord & switched the bathroom lighT ON.
Then pulling the short cord on the isolation item from ON/OFF etc etc made no difference thus the bathroom light staying ON all the time.
 
Doubtful - light/heater units connect to the lighting circuit just like any other light. Would be exceptionally unusual to have one which required it's own circuit or had it's own separate switch.
In the past, I have installed and/ or dealt with three types:

One where I put the heater side on a disused immersion circuit and the light side on the usual circuit.

Another where the whole thing was wired to an ex-shower circuit via a DP pull cord. Then there was a multi-position pull cord on the unit switching between heat only/ light only/ heat and light.

A third (1960's or 70's vintage unit) where the whole unit was on the lighting circuit and be damned!
 
Ok
So now we know the facts what wiring am I expected to find.
I mean when I remove the light/heater from the ceiling will there just be wires there to connect straight to new light thus just pulling king cord again to operate AND / OR will there be other wires for this isolation pull cord.
 
I would think you might find at least three cables - nine wires.

One supply cable, one cable to next room and one cable to the switch.

Of course it could be anything.

Before disconnecting, mark which wires are connected together and then reconnect in the same way.
 
So with let’s say 9 wires.
I assume that the wires to the existing light need to be used to the new light.

Thus the other 6 which feed the next room etc are the joined ones meaning keep them joined afterwards unless you don’t the bedroom etc to work.
 
Yes, just connect exactly as they were.

All wires to light/heater to new light. Plus any wires connected together but not to light.

upload_2020-4-10_17-41-41.png


What sort of light is the new one?
 
Haven’t bought it yet BUT.
I have one the same as what she requires.
My wiring is like so.

Two red wires in a chock block ?
Clear plastic thing with brass screws in top.

Green earth wire to metal bracket of lamp.

One black wire to one of the light connections.

The other black wire to the other light connection. This wire has tape on it so it’s live when pull cord on but dead when pull cord pulled again.
 

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