Bathroom Lighting 12v Driver Question

[Justin Bodley]

Hiya!

My bathroom currently has 6 x 20w halogen (GU5.3 mr16) 12v downlights which are powered via 2 drivers, 3 lights per driver. 3 of the lights have been out for a while so after investigation it looks like one of the drivers has failed. These were installed by the previous owner. I want to change all the bulbs to the equivalent LED (about 2W..... or maybe lower as the room isn't huge!) So do I replace both drivers (they are old..... well defo one is!) and keep them on 2 circuits if one fails again, or do I just run all 6 lights off 1 driver? Either way, any recommendations on good LED drivers and what kind of wattage would they need to be? LED's pull larger power when switched on I was told? Would need to take that into account. I have attached pics of the drivers. Note the one states 20-60w. The other one states 60VA which I think would be 60W also? That makes sense but in my opinion was cutting it close as it would be running 3 x 20w bulbs! Not sure which one has given up as I hadn't got my multimeter handy. Guessing the huge black brick tho! lol!

Any help would be brilliant! Thank you in advance!

 

[flameport]

Sling the whole lot away and buy new 230V LED light fittings, which will be GU10 for the LED equivalents to what you have now.
Or integrated LED fittings if you don't mind the possibility of failure and being unable to obtain replacements.

 

[Justin Bodley]

Thanks, is this safe in a bathroom though? I thought that the reason for 12v was because of moisture?

 

[SFK]

I recommend same As above, remove 12V drivers and

change to change GU10 holders (I suggest fire rated as also reduces draft and moisture ingress into space above ceiling):

Fire Rated Supplied Without Bulb Downlights | Lighting | Screwfix

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And low luminescent GU10 bulbs

LAP GU10 LED Light Bulb 230lm 2.4W 5 Pack - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

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Sfk

 

[flameport]

12V halogen lamps are significantly brighter than the 230V equivalents, which is why the 12V versions persisted for so long.
However for LED that is irrelevant. Separate LED drivers just adds cost and complexity, and significantly limits the choice of lamps.

12V lighting being 'safer' for bathrooms is just another myth. Unless you are wanting lights inside the bath itself, 230V lighting has been available for and used in bathrooms for ever.
Same applies to the nonsense where some people install 12V extractor fans.

 

[SFK]

is this safe in a bathroom

Yes, safe.
240V downloghts are just as safe/dangerous in bathrooms as other rooms.
.
Best to always isolate electricity at fuse box (consumer unit) before pulling out downlight from ceiling.

And joking reminder to not change bulb with feet in bath water

Sfk

 

[Justin Bodley]

Thanks for all your replies! Much appreciated! So I'm thinking of just going for 240v because of your replies. Just having a quick look online. These any good? Would they fot the same holes in the ceiling?

LAP Fixed Mains Voltage Downlight Brushed Chrome - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. A fixed, brushed chrome-effect downlight. Suitable for mains voltage. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[Adam_151]

They are not suitable IMHO, they are only IP21 which on the surface would only seem to be an issue if they were to stray into zone 2 (which is unlikely, with a standard 8 foot ceiling - possible if it is lower) However that, and the image of them suggests that they don't form any sort of seal and let moisure and steam rise up past the lamp, which while not terribly great for the fitting allows it into your roof space, where you don't want your bathroom moisture going as lofts are cold in winter and it'll condense on things and cause mould and other things you don't want.

 

[EFLImpudence]

The specifications actually state they are NOT for bathroom use.

 

[Justin Bodley]

Thanks again for all your replies. After going in the loft again etc, changing the fittings/wiring to 240v G10's would be a nightmare as I'd have to pull up some of the floor in the loft, also replacing all the fittings would be expensive. I'm thinking of staying with the 12v option and replacing the drivers. I'm looking at these bulbs which are 2w each. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-gu5-3-mr16-led-light-bulb-210lm-2w-5-pack/475pp
So, 6 of these would only pull 12w. What size driver would you recommend? 1 driver for all 6 or 2 drivers to run 3 each? I read that some drivers require a minimum wattage for them to work? Any driver recommendations would be great! If I go with 1 driver to run all 6 lights, any recommendations to a suitable 6 way junction box?

Thanks in advance!

 

[SFK]

, any recommendations to a suitable 6 way junction box?

250V Junction Boxes | Electrical Supplies & Accessories | Toolstation.com

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But I would likely just have a single wire, with the lamps as a chain along that wire.

If you can, try and ensure you use a suitable wire with an earth so that there is an earth to each light . Means that you do not have to rewire if you do change to 240V at some point in future.

 

[SFK]

, 6 of these would only pull 12w.

This is rated at 16W so should be good for your requirements.

Aurora 12V Constant Voltage LED Driver 16W - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Can be used in conjunction with Aurora LED Strip Kit products. Features overload, short-circuit and thermal protection. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com