car amp

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hey i just got a new amp and sub for my car and i just want to know if you can put a 13 amp plug top and plug it in to a 13amp socket outlet with out blowin it thanx
 
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remind me. do cars have 230VAC or 12VDC?
 
its just i have a 12amp feed there and it did work but now does not still 12amp and not blown it, and you and power a tv with a battey and plug it in so i just wonderd
 
connect a 12VDC car amp to a 230VAC supply will destroy it. aswell as the fact it is plain stupidity

as for TV's, some are dual voltage, and if you pay attention, they quite clearly have different points of connections
 
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i think what he is asking andrew is
would a mains fuse be sutable for use in a 12v car sterio system :?: :?: :?:
 
john_uk said:
its just i have a 12amp feed there and it did work but now does not still 12amp and not blown it, and you and power a tv with a battey and plug it in so i just wonderd

Cypher ???
 
pipme said:
john_uk said:
its just i have a 12amp feed there and it did work but now does not still 12amp and not blown it, and you and power a tv with a battey and plug it in so i just wonderd

Cypher ???

i read this to mean that he belives the mains fuse is in the circut when your using battery power when of course the mains connection is not used in battery/12v conditions
 
What language was that in then BA ??? You should get job as interpreter !! ;)
 
john_uk said:
its just i have a 12amp feed there and it did work but now does not still 12amp and not blown it, and you and power a tv with a battey and plug it in so i just wonderd
I give up. I've read this several times - even tried reading the words in different orders.

It always seems gibberish to me.

Could you try again, please?
 
I hope I know what John means...

Is your intention to fit the amp in your car, and use a standard 3-pin plug and socket in order to allow you to remove the amp easily?

Unfortunately, this will not work. The current draw of automotive amplifiers is rather high: at a nominal 12V, a 240 watt amplifier will be drawing 20amps. This is beyond the rated current of the socket and plug, and even with high-quality branded components will be a fire hazard, that is assuming that you replace the fuse with a piece of iron bar (you can't get fuses greater than 13A for such plugtops). When you bear in mind that 1200W amps are relatively common, that 100A peak current would not do a lot of good to a 13A plug! :eek:

However, all is not lost. Many people design their ICE to be removable (never know when you will need that boot!) so there are connectors out there which are suitable. Good luck! :D
 
I used a battery connector used on forklift trucks / boats for my amps.

David
 
A forklift power connector would be far more than adequate! That style of connector would be ideal, in a current rating similar to your requirements (dw, if you get anywhere near that rating then I fear for your eardrums!). I seem to remember that a local ICE shop stocked connectors that were similar to those used on electric lawnmowers, but chunkier.

Remember that you will still need a fuse next to the battery, no matter what connector you use.

I am not sure what the best connector to use to break the connection to the amplifier input and possibly speaker outputs would be though.

You really would be able to get all the required answers by popping in to your local (or even national chain) ICE shop, tell them what you want and they will let you know what you need to do it. Especially if they have a good fitting team, and doubley especially if you bought the aforementioned amp there. :idea:
 
AdamW...

I had 137db before i pulled it all out.. bought a subaru instead and now me priorities are making it go quick!

I had a 170A circuit breaker next to battery.. and could pulll well over 100A when having it fairly loud.. :D

And despite what people might think it was set up more for Quality (SQ) rather than SPL (Loud!)

Also worth a look when going silly :D

http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/AutoSound.shtml
 

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