Changing oven. Connection quiery.

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Hello all. Thanks for reading.

Im getting a new oven come monday, boy my oven now must be years old, was in before we moved in. Anyway. Il drop a link to the new oven. Its pretty much like for like.

Just a quick question regarding whats best for the connection.

There is indeed a flex connection plate behind the cooker, il leave a photo, the best i could anyway. This is on its own wiring to a 30amp at the fuseboard.

My question however is should i change the flex to a plug socket? Or just rewire to the new oven. Or is there no real point.

I think the reason im wondering, is because the new oven has a plug on it.. which i WAS just going to cut off and wire to the flex connection plate.

https://ao.com/product/ifw6340bl-in...x36bARh4vY5Myffi1PzOTm6XJvAY3IIhoCFL0QAvD_BwE

Thanks.
....note: the photo is from within the cabinet ABOVE the oven. Where we just have a microwave sat.
 

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The flex on your new oven is not going to be rated at 30A, that's for sure so cutting the plug off etc etc. not a good idea on its own unless you derate the circuit at the fuseboard to 15A.
You could put a 13A socket on instead of the flex outlet but the circuit would then require RCD protection. I think the same requirement would apply if you put an FCU on instead of a 13A socket.
You say fuseboard and mention 30A, makes me think you have rewirable fuses. Are there any RCDs on any of the circuits?
 
I looked for the installation instructions, to see how much power it requires, and if it requires RCD or other protection, just to be on the safe side, however the instructions say how to use oven, but very little else.

My reading of the question picked up
30amp at the fuseboard
and this is the bit which I question, 30 amp points to an actually fuse, today the distribution units are type tested and contain items like Residual current device (RCD) protection and surge protection devices (SPD) and manufacturers expect them to be fitted, fuses have been replaced in the main for miniature circuit breakers (MCB) and these tend to be 32 amp rather than 30.

Likely no problem either way, be it fit a socket and plug in or hard wire, but we are remote and unable to see any problems. It would possibly need registering if a new socket fitted in Wales. In Wales kitchen is still a special location.
 
The flex on your new oven is not going to be rated at 30A, that's for sure so cutting the plug off etc etc. not a good idea on its own unless you derate the circuit at the fuseboard to 15A.
You could put a 13A socket on instead of the flex outlet but the circuit would then require RCD protection. I think the same requirement would apply if you put an FCU on instead of a 13A socket.
You say fuseboard and mention 30A, makes me think you have rewirable fuses. Are there any RCDs on any of the circuits?
I await the comments that an undersized flex feeding resistive elements is safe to leave unprotected, as usually happens on this subject.

In the meantime my advice: As the replacement oven comes with a fitted plug (presumably 13A) just change the flex outlet plate for a socket.
 
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The flex on your new oven is not going to be rated at 30A, that's for sure so cutting the plug off etc etc. not a good idea on its own unless you derate the circuit at the fuseboard to 15A.
You could put a 13A socket on instead of the flex outlet but the circuit would then require RCD protection. I think the same requirement would apply if you put an FCU on instead of a 13A socket.
You say fuseboard and mention 30A, makes me think you have rewirable fuses. Are there any RCDs on any of the circuits?

See attached picture of my existing fuseboard.
 

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I looked for the installation instructions, to see how much power it requires, and if it requires RCD or other protection, just to be on the safe side, however the instructions say how to use oven, but very little else.

My reading of the question picked up

and this is the bit which I question, 30 amp points to an actually fuse, today the distribution units are type tested and contain items like Residual current device (RCD) protection and surge protection devices (SPD) and manufacturers expect them to be fitted, fuses have been replaced in the main for miniature circuit breakers (MCB) and these tend to be 32 amp rather than 30.

Likely no problem either way, be it fit a socket and plug in or hard wire, but we are remote and unable to see any problems. It would possibly need registering if a new socket fitted in Wales. In Wales kitchen is still a special location.


I had alook myself.. is this what you where looking for at all? (See picture 1)

Thanks for the help.

Moreover. I also looked up my existing ovens manual online too, and on the right hand side, you can see the electrical technicals. (See picture 2)
 

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I await the comments that an undersized flex feeding resistive elements is safe to leave unprotected, as usually happens on this subject.

In the meantime my advice: As the replacement oven comes with a fitted plug (presumably 13A) just change the flex outlet plate for a socket.

And that would be sufficient? The fuse being at the plug? And the fuseboard circuit having a fuse of 30.

Sorry if thats a silly question.

Thanks for the help.

If you see one of my other replys to someone else, i looked for the manuals to both the new oven due to arrive AND the existing. The old one was rated at 20 (i think it said) and the new one to 13.
 
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I await the comments that an undersized flex feeding resistive elements is safe to leave unprotected, as usually happens on this subject.
What would be the point? You will not accept the explanation of what the the regulations state.

You never did explain how the oven element (I think it was) you encountered managed to draw four times its design current seemingly quite happily.



What would you say if I replied to Eric's comment by stating that NO appliances require RCD 'protection'.
 
And that would be sufficient? The fuse being at the plug? And the fuseboard circuit having a fuse of 30.

Sorry if thats a silly question.

Thanks for the help.

If you see one of my other replys to someone else, i looked for the manuals to both the new oven due to arrive AND the existing. The old one was rated at 20 (i think it said) and the new one to 13.
In the site you linked to, the spec shows it's rated at 13A and fitted with a plug. In my opinion the simplest thing to do is change the flex outlet to a socket.
I can't imagine anyone having any sensible objection, it complies with regs and in my experience it's safer than terminating the provided flex directly into the 30A circuit.
 
What would be the point? You will not accept the explanation of what the the regulations state.

You never did explain how the oven element (I think it was) you encountered managed to draw four times its design current seemingly quite happily.



What would you say if I replied to Eric's comment by stating that NO appliances require RCD 'protection'.
I don't wish to spoil this thread for Alex. My reply here:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/resistive-element-ocpd.578158/#post-5055496
 
My old Wylex CU had two 30A MCBs for the ring mains, (not fuses), so they do exist in older installations. It's not really a like-for-like swap that you're doing as it's double to single oven so you might end up with some wasted space when you slot it in.
 
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I don't wish to spoil this thread for Alex.
Me neither. But, the photo of his fuse board shows an old style Wylex with no RCD protection on any circuit except for the bathroom fan&lights.

Strictly speaking, swopping the cooker connector plate for a socket would not comply with the regs.
 
What would you say if I replied to Eric's comment by stating that NO appliances require RCD 'protection'.
Worcester Power.jpg
This it seems is from Worcester Bosch boiler, where it states not only is a RCD required but it should be type A. With the comment "where additional protection is required." leaving the installer to find out if additional protection is required.

Personally I think it should say "when using a TT supply" or similar. Through the regulations we have "shall be selected and erected in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions." "shall be selected in accordance with the manufacturer's instruction sheet" "In all cases, the manufacturer's instructions shall be followed." "134.1.1 Good workmanship by competent persons or persons under their supervision and proper materials shall be used in the erection of the electrical installation. Electrical equipment shall be installed in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the equipment."

I seem to remember being told it now says manufacturers instructions should be taken into account? Which makes sense as I have had battery powered items with instructions clearly designed for mains power. So some common sense is required.

I have at work been asked some thing by some one I was working with and have answered in good faith, only to latter visit and realise something lost in the communication and something done which really should not have been done.

In this case easy option seems to be fit a 13 amp socket, likely that is what I would do. However a 13 amp plug is designed to be used in free air, in most cases the ovens own fans mean there is no problem with ventilation.

But I note "before we moved in" not "before we bought the home" so for all we know it is rented accommodation. If that is the case then there will be at some point an EICR, and possibly some other inspection or limitations of what is permitted. In Wales for example it would require in theory at least registering. I personally would not worry about it, but the law says if fixed in a special location and a kitchen is a special location, so you can use an extension lead, but use some cleats to keep flex off work top so it does not get wet, and it needs registering, not that anyone in their right mind would bother.

When I moved in here I swapped the existing built in hob and oven for a stand alone cooker, and the Wylex fuse box was replaced with a consumer unit latter, and the new landlord laws in England seem to want things doing far faster than I as a home owner would do, it took around 6 months before I got my fuse box removed. Previous house I just added RCD protection and never did get around to swapping the fuse boxes for consumer units.

If I was asked to install an oven in that house, it would require a minor works certificate, so question is can I sign this "I being the person responsible for the Design, Construction, Inspection & Testing of the electrical installation (as indicated by my signature below), particulars of which are described above, having exercised reasonable skill and care when carrying out the Design, Construction, Inspection & Testing, hereby CERTIFY that the said work for which I have been responsible is to the best of my knowledge and belief in accordance with BS 7671:2018, amended to .............(date) except for the departures, if any, detailed as follows."

The problem is
upload_2021-12-29_9-50-46.png
and
upload_2021-12-29_9-52-47.png

So I would need to write down why I feel in this case I can do without RCD protection. My own house yes I would do it, and to heck with the certificate, but with some one else's home, where I have no control, I have just read about an EICR done clearly a drive by report, and how the home was sold, and new owners are taking the electrician to court over the report. OK the electrician was a bit silly admitting some of the errors, he shot himself in the foot, but we laugh about jobs worth, but it can be exactly that.

To break rules and laws as an owner occupier one is very unlikely to get caught, and you use some common sense, but if not owner occupier then a very different story. So the question is, when you know an electrician will likely refuse to fit it, should you? Last century I would have fitted it without any problems, but since 2008 I know I should not fit it, I know many will and just leave no paperwork, in my own house I would fit it promising myself I would change the fuse board once I had some time.

Back a few years I would have used a RCD socket, or FCU, but even that does not really comply today, as the BS EN numbers used with sockets are not on the list of permitted devices. Yes agree all gone a bit silly, but I did not write law or regulations.
 

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