Crimps or alternate way of joining power lead inside appliance

[chivers67]

I'd use a crimp inside personally, I can't imagine the temperature inside the Iron cable points will reach melting point of Solder but wouldn't like to risk it.

 

[JohnW2]

I'd use a crimp inside personally, I can't imagine the temperature inside the Iron cable points will reach melting point of Solder but wouldn't like to risk it.

That's my point. The soldered joints obviously should not get anywhere near melting point of solder 'in normal service' but, under some (or fault) circumstances, that might be a possibility - hence the 'risk' which you (and I) wouldn't like to take.

Of course, a soldered joint should theoretically not rely on the soldering for its electrical or mechanical integrity, but 'theory' and practice don't always coincide!

Kind Regards, John

 

[333rocky333]

Them crimps in the OP look like they may be Silicon.
We repair Bain Maries that only have 300W halogen lamps in and we use Porcelain connectors, over the years I have encountered both Burnt up Thru crimps as well as cooked Bakerlte connectors that other workers have attempted to use.
As for the temperature inside the units I don't know
.
Anyway what I am saying is normal crimps may also be unsuitable

 

[SUNRAY]

I had exactly this conundrum on our Iron and settled on a ceramic choc block, however after making the repair I tested the white crimps of OP with a match and they very quickly shrunk then softened and melted so I concluded they were nothing special. They looked to me to be the same items as used in multi light fittings. Additionally I checked the temp of the cover with an IR contactless thermometer and it was running cool enough to 'guess' that the internal temp was not an issue and of course the cable was not anything special temp wise.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Same here. However, although I've had umpteen soldering irons (and still have many of them), none have been 'fancy' ones. In other words, I've never had a soldering iron with any sort of temperature control - and if one leaves such irons on for a while, the tip often gets far hotter than is needed to melt 60/40 solder.

Kind Regards, John

I use a temperature controlled one, I also have a couple of variable output ones and one of those instant soldering guns (useless). My oldest one is faithful 50v ex-telecom GPO one, from when I worked at GPO telephones. It never over heats, never burns it bit, so far as I can determine its not temperature controlled - it just works.

 

[JohnW2]

I use a temperature controlled one, I also have a couple of variable output ones and one of those instant soldering guns (useless). My oldest one is faithful 50v ex-telecom GPO one, from when I worked at GPO telephones.

Ah ... my 'oldest one', which was my Grandfather's and is probably now over a century old, doesn't do volts, 50 or otherwise - but it needs a gas stove or similar to heat it up

Kind Regards, John

 

[conny]

You will probably find the cable going to an iron element will be induction brazed on a good model.
This is the method we used on HT motors to do the cross connections and fit the leads.
Standard solder seems a bit too easy to fail in my opinion. It may not melt, but I wouldn't be surprised if it got just a little bit softer, leading to a poor joint.

 

[conny]

Ah ... my 'oldest one', which was my Grandfather's and is probably now over a century old, doesn't do volts, 50 or otherwise - but it needs a gas stove or similar to heat it up

Kind Regards, John

I've got one of those ones somewhere. Looks like a little square ended spear.

 

[SUNRAY]

You will probably find the cable going to an iron element will be induction brazed on a good model.
This is the method we used on HT motors to do the cross connections and fit the leads.
Standard solder seems a bit too easy to fail in my opinion. It may not melt, but I wouldn't be surprised if it got just a little bit softer, leading to a poor joint.

I've replaced loads of iron cables over the years and I feel the 'typical' construction method is to bring the connexions to the handle with heat resistand wire, originally bare wires and ceramic beads but more recently with hard white insulation which feels like it may be part of the Teflon family and then joined to the incoming flex with crimps or screws. Agreed the other end will often be a welded/braised style joint onto the element or thermostat.

 

[JohnW2]

I've got one of those ones somewhere. Looks like a little square ended spear.

Same here, but I'm not sure I would call it particularly 'small' (upper pic below). I also have one with an even bigger tip which does 'do volts' (it says 240V) - or, at least, it would if it had a lead (lower pic) (with apologies for grotty photo!)



Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Where did my photo go? Try again ...

Edit: Hmmm - at least it's there now, even if one has to click on the thumbnail!

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

Where did my photo go? Try again ...

Edit: Hmmm - at least it's there now, even if one has to click on the thumbnail!

Kind Regards, John

Ah but the bottom one is electric. If I had to guess I'd go for Solon or English Electric and 150 to 250W.

 

[JohnW2]

Ah but the bottom one is electric.

Indeed it is - as I said, that one "does do volts"

If I had to guess I'd go for Solon or English Electric and 150 to 250W.

I might have guessed siumilarly. However, having cleaned it up, and somewhat to my astonishment, on the handle ...

The metal shaft is engraved with "230/250 VOLTS Made in England", but I can find no mention of power anywhere. I certainly have used it - the cable was removed because it was getting a bit iffy, and I haven't yet got around to replacing it - but, when I do, I'll measure the power!

Kind Regards, John

 

[conny]

When I was an armature winder we used to do some really big armatures, (core pack up to 6' diameter), and we would have the armature mounted on trestles whilst we sweated the bars into the commutator risers. Our soldering irons consisted of a big 'cube' of copper about 4" x 4" but the base of the 'cube' would be about 5 1/2" long. Imagine a cube but with a tapering shelf along the bottom. It had a steel bar screwed into the block with a wooden file handle on the end to grip it by. The irons, (usually had 4 on the go at once, 2 for each person), were heated up on a propane burner stand, the tips were fluxed and solder melted across the face of them. We had to raise these with one hand and insert it between the comm risers whilst the other hand was feeding solder into the joint. As soon as the joint had filled with molten solder you had to remove the iron and quickly grab a pair of 'flats' to squeeze the joint tight while the solder set. Flats are like large pliers but with perfectly smooth jaws so as not to leave an impression on the joint. Basically a specialist tool for winders and we usually made our own in a forge from scratch. You could buy welders hand clamps like these;

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Welding-...=Flat+pliers&qid=1565283785&s=gateway&sr=8-15

but we preffered to make our own so we could get the right polished finish to them.

 

[SUNRAY]

Indeed it is - as I said, that one "does do volts"
I might have guessed siumilarly. However, having cleaned it up, and somewhat to my astonishment, on the handle ...

View attachment 169145

The metal shaft is engraved with "230/250 VOLTS Made in England", but I can find no mention of power anywhere. I certainly have used it - the cable was removed because it was getting a bit iffy, and I haven't yet got around to replacing it - but, when I do, I'll measure the power!

Kind Regards, John

Sorry John, I completely missed that you did 2 posts.