Dimmable GU10

[ey143]

The ability to dim a Gu10 light - is it the dimmer switch and the gu10 bulb that needs to be dimmable i.e. The gu10 lamp holder does not come in a dimmable or non dimmable format?

 

[omega015]

Is it an LED or halogen bulb etc...?

 

[ey143]

Sorry yes, LED.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You need bulbs which can be dimmed, and a dimmer switch which will cope with the type of bulbs you have. The actual light fittings are irrelevant.

But if you haven't fitted 2" diameter lights yet, don't.

 

[ey143]

Why not?

 

[omega015]

ban-all-sheds isn't a fan of downlights. I'm sure he wont mind explaining why though so you can decide. If you do get any LED bulbs and want to dim them then as ban... said, you need dimmable bulbs and a dimmer that can handle the low wattage bulbs/load or an LED specific dimmer like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/varilight...te/4419f#product_additional_details_container (keep in mind this needs a 35mm back box so check what you have first).

 

[ericmark]

Size matters, aim a spot light at a white ceiling and it will work well, aim it at a dark floor and it's hopeless. One way to improve the light is to mount a defuser below the lamp and so the area the light is coming from is increased, however it is easier to just fit a larger lamp.

The problem with the spot light is with the LED version it has cooling fins which reduces the area still further.

As to dimmable, good quality lamps have pulse width modulated drivers built in which auto correct volt drop, so will not dim, poorer lamps have a simple capacitor to reduce the current so can be dimmed, however those cheaper lamps are going to give around 70 lumen per watt, against the 100 lumen per watt for the better quality.

I have used low quality lamps, I am really not worried about the little extra running cost, however if you add the running cost and inappropriate selection of lights you can easy end up paying 3 times what is required to light a room. Son has 5 x 7W GU10 for a little kitchen which is darker than my living room 4 times the size with 10 x 3W candle. It's not a simple case of counting the lumen output.

In general the small round surface mount lamps work better than the GU10 as although only an inch or so larger the diffuser means the light is spread far better.

Dimming switches save re-wiring, but being able to select how many lights works far better.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Why not?

2" diameter lights are about the size of the business end of a Maglite torch.

That format was originally made as a cine projector light, and then got taken up by the retail industry to deliver tight beams of light to shine on individual items to display or highlight them, and they gradually morphed into being used in homes. But no amount of fiddling can get round the fact that they are rooted in something which is designed to not provide whole room illumination. I say that carefully - it isn't a case of "not being designed to light up rooms", it's actually "designed to not light up rooms".

Ever heard people refer to them as spotlights? They are designed to light up a spot, not a whole room.

When you see them used in ceilings to light rooms, you'll see them used in large numbers to overcome the problem of them not being able to light a room individually. If they were any good at lighting up rooms you wouldn't need several of them spread across the ceiling.

Of course we have moved on from having GLS pendant lights, and if you do want recessed lights in the ceiling to be unobtrusive, low profile etc, that's fine, but use large ones - 180/200/200mm diameter, not a rash of 50mm ones.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

As to dimmable, good quality lamps have pulse width modulated drivers built in which auto correct volt drop, so will not dim, poorer lamps have a simple capacitor to reduce the current so can be dimmed, however those cheaper lamps are going to give around 70 lumen per watt, against the 100 lumen per watt for the better quality.

Simple answer - either use good quality integrated lights, which can be dimmed and are efficient. Or use ones where the power supply and the dimming control is not built into the bulbs.

 

[ericmark]

Simple answer - either use good quality integrated lights, which can be dimmed and are efficient. Or use ones where the power supply and the dimming control is not built into the bulbs.

I agree, however I also don't like spending money, so I have cheap 70 lumen per watt lamps in my house, to date I have renewed some G5.3 MR16 LED lamps, no others have failed, but when I went to CFL I read how they should last 10 years and they did not even reach two years, and it may say 10,000 hours and you may only use it 2 hours a day, so should last 13.7 years, but try going into a shop and say I got this bulb 5 years ago and it's failed, and lets see you get a replacement?

Once caught twice shy, I am not spending a fortune on bulbs again.

 

[ey143]

I have purchased the Varlight brand dimming switch already. In terms of light, I have already bought 120 degree GU10 bulbs which we use in the kitchen and it does a great job of filling the room with light compared to 38 degree halogen spot lights I have been using in the bedroom for the last 12 years and have lasted i.e. not blown but are useless in terms of spreading light. The transformers also keep failing on them so moving to LED lamp holders instead with no transformers.

 

[winston1]

The transformers also keep failing on them so moving to LED lamp holders instead with no transformers.

If they keep failing they are NOT transformers, but switch mode power supplies. Transformers are extremely reliable.

 

[ey143]

When I say failing, I mean they often dont come on for weeks, then suddenly the spot will come on for no reason and go off again after a while. I was told that the transformers are the likely things that go for the MR16 halogens. We had these installed back in 2002.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If they keep failing they are NOT transformers, but switch mode power supplies. Transformers are extremely reliable.

 

[winston1]

It is labelled wrongly. Yet another example of stupid manufacturers who don't know what they are selling.

When I say failing, I mean they often dont come on for weeks, then suddenly the spot will come on for no reason and go off again after a while. I was told that the transformers are the likely things that go for the MR16 halogens. We had these installed back in 2002.