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Drawers install in eaves. Rafter cut?

Discussion in 'Building' started by LostInTheUnderflow, 20 May 2018.

  1. LostInTheUnderflow

    LostInTheUnderflow

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    I'm installing a chest of drawers in some eaves space in a bedroom.

    The drawers are too deep by 3cm (I knew this when I bought it).
    I have a few options:
    1. Cut into the drawers. It wont interfere with the drawers and wont be seen as it will be covered by plasterboard.
    2. Build the wall forward.
    3. Cut 3cm into the rafter, but I am not sure how dodgy that is.
    Any advice?

    Thanks.



     
  2. John D v2.0

    John D v2.0

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    don't see the dilemma, based on what you said 1 is no problem caused whatsoever, 2 is a load of faff and 3 is cutting into a structural member of your roof.
     
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  3. big-all

    big-all

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    ok first thing you need to work out is where the back off the drawer is in compared to the top back corner
    my suggestion is do not alter structural timber at all
    nibble at the top and back off the complete carcas without drawers in
    i suspect 30mm with the actual drawer box will relate to perhaps a zero to 10mm champher so minimum
    actually looking at it the drawer box will be no where near the structural timber when scribed in
    you have perhaps 6mm to back panel 3mm back panel perhaps 10mm clearance then box is perhaps 30mm from top surface so no problem
     
    Last edited: 21 May 2018
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  4. LostInTheUnderflow

    LostInTheUnderflow

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    Thanks,
    1 it is.
     
  5. noseall

    noseall

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    Consider that there is a possibility the stuff in the drawers may go mouldy.
     
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  6. IWalkLikeHimaMartian

    IWalkLikeHimaMartian

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    Bit of a daft project really. You have destroyed the thermal envelope and any vapour non-permeability that there was.
    As noseall says, plus the drawers and carcass themselves may become mouldy.
     
  7. LostInTheUnderflow

    LostInTheUnderflow

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    noseall, can you expand on that?
    What is your concern here?
    I've sealed the unit from exposure to the loft space. I put a board on the bottom and 2 fixing holes at the back and sealed with caulk.
     
  8. LostInTheUnderflow

    LostInTheUnderflow

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    I'm going to extend the ceiling slope down with plasterboard and plasterboard down the sides.
    And finish plasterboard to unit with decorators caulk.
     
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  10. LostInTheUnderflow

    LostInTheUnderflow

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    What surprised me was that the internal walls to were insulated (left and right) and also the roof. but a huge channel (going left and right joining all the eaves) was not.
    I intend to fix this, but not insulate left and right as these will be internal to internal.
     
  11. IWalkLikeHimaMartian

    IWalkLikeHimaMartian

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    You need to reinstate all thermal elements and VCM (vapour control membrane, including properly joined edges) behind, at the sides and above the drawers (but not underneath, but the VCM should be resealed to any other VCM already above the downstairs ceiling, and the thermal elements joined or overlapped).
     
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  12. John D v2.0

    John D v2.0

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    Good point, you'll need excellent insulation around the external side of the drawers. Even where there's good insulation it's common to get mould in stagnant corners of a room. This will be a whole stagnant chest of drawers, very risky.
     
  13. Ian H

    Ian H

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    Just fill the drawers with thermals.

    Does it just touch the one joist? I would notch the top of the unit so the rafter fits into it.
     
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  14. noseall

    noseall

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    Mould/condensation problems are not a given. The idiosyncrasies regarding when and where mould may form are complex.
    I would be robust in how I tackled the finishing surrounding the cut-out.
     
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  15. LostInTheUnderflow

    LostInTheUnderflow

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    Firstly, just a point to note:
    The left and right of this space are internal walls.
    I am planning on insulating the roof right to the bottom and extend the plastic sheet (warm side) and plasterboarding the roof right down.

    Incidentally I may be able to get round my original problem and not need to cut into the drawers by removing the batton at the front floor and putting the drowers right to the floor.
    Plasterboard will be notched where it meets the back of the drawers, but insulation and plastic sheeting will be there.

    I am planning on not insulating the sides, unless you kind people can help me understand why I would need to.
    They will be internal to internal now.

    This is at the back and to the right hand side.
    There is membrane there.
    I was going to put insulation down here (wasn't there before).

    At the back of the space low down I was going insulate plastic sheet and plasterboard the hatched area shown below.

    Thanks in advance.
     
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  16. John D v2.0

    John D v2.0

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    Sounds great, just make sure the insulation joins up with any other insulation. So make sure there is no gap due to new insulation taking a different route to the old.
    I'd still be concerned about mould, may be withw putting a very small rad in there
     
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