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electric boiler keeps tripping fuse box
- Thread starter tx200man
- Start date
replaced both top and bottom immersion heaters tonight, bottom one seem ok, 238v running through it, hoping for hot water in the morning, top (boost) - im expecting problems, only 8v going through it? only seems to be 8.4v running from wall, checked switch its fine, definately all the current the wire is carrying. Not acutally sure when the boost was last used but i do know it used to at one point.
on inspection of immersion heaters the bottom one had a pea sized hole in it, the top is so corroded with green deposits but other than that appeared intact.
post back tomorrow if i finally have hot water.
on inspection of immersion heaters the bottom one had a pea sized hole in it, the top is so corroded with green deposits but other than that appeared intact.
post back tomorrow if i finally have hot water.
The top one was the one where you did some rewiring - are you sure it's OK?
Do you mean that you've actually disconnected the switch and checked that it works?
You said you were measuring voltage, not current.
What are you measuring, and where?
Do you have 230V at the supply terminals of the switch?
Do you have 230V at the load terminals of the switch?
Do you have 230V at the heater?
Are you putting an auto-ranging meter in series with the supply to a working element?
wiring is exactly as the bottom immersion, which is working fine now, we have hot water YAyy. multimeter on AC, it measures 8.4v, i measured first at immersion, then at switch, then at wires to switch from wall, all are reading 8v.
This is where i am stomped, because im not an electrician i dont know where to check.
the heater timer control on the kitchen wall shows a light when boost is pressed and when pressed the multimeter shows a AC measurement, when off it does not, as i expect. The same fuse in the fuse box controls both immersions on the tank so i presume its not that. im thinking there must be a problem from the wiring supplying the tank. how to trace this is another matter.
I presume due to the green corrosion on the one replaced that it has not worked in a good while.
This is where i am stomped, because im not an electrician i dont know where to check.
the heater timer control on the kitchen wall shows a light when boost is pressed and when pressed the multimeter shows a AC measurement, when off it does not, as i expect. The same fuse in the fuse box controls both immersions on the tank so i presume its not that. im thinking there must be a problem from the wiring supplying the tank. how to trace this is another matter.
I presume due to the green corrosion on the one replaced that it has not worked in a good while.
You could try AC.
MIS-PRINT
changed the wiring and the switch and the thermostat in the top immersion heater just to rule everything out at the tank.
no power is being delivered to the immersion heater. the wiring to it has no power running within it, the switch i replaced the existing with is one which is fused and with a red light, no red light and fuse checked and working.
Problem would then appear to be power to the switch itself is the problem. this is a worry as at one point it worked and now does not. Basically i do not know where the power can be coming from ie, where the wire to switch is getting its supply from. it is not a spur from the other immersion switch, this i know. All sockets and lights are working throughout the house but i will be checking each socket on the upper floor to double check.
Im stumped
no power is being delivered to the immersion heater. the wiring to it has no power running within it, the switch i replaced the existing with is one which is fused and with a red light, no red light and fuse checked and working.
Problem would then appear to be power to the switch itself is the problem. this is a worry as at one point it worked and now does not. Basically i do not know where the power can be coming from ie, where the wire to switch is getting its supply from. it is not a spur from the other immersion switch, this i know. All sockets and lights are working throughout the house but i will be checking each socket on the upper floor to double check.
Im stumped
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You said you had one of these?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HOE7Q.html
Or these?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HOELEC7.html
Does it just feed the bottom element?
Usually with a two-element tank, there's a sink/bath switch somewhere?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...cessories/Dual_Immersion_Switch_MK/index.html
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HOE7Q.html
Or these?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HOELEC7.html
Does it just feed the bottom element?
Usually with a two-element tank, there's a sink/bath switch somewhere?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...cessories/Dual_Immersion_Switch_MK/index.html
changed both immersion heaters, so got hot water through the night, still no boost so bought a new timer switch, direct replacement which worked fine and dandy out the box, i now have a boost. the switch has a light on which it never before so must have been a faulty timer unit.
last night i turned the water heater off at the switch so that the water would be cold today at lunch time.
the water is still roasting so i think the boiler must be still getting a live feed and is not being timed by the switch, only cutting off by thermostat.
i hate this thing its driving me nuts
last night i turned the water heater off at the switch so that the water would be cold today at lunch time.
the water is still roasting so i think the boiler must be still getting a live feed and is not being timed by the switch, only cutting off by thermostat.
i hate this thing its driving me nuts
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