Engine oil
- Thread starter bikeit
- Start date
Sponsored Links
The 5/40 has greater viscosity (thickness, if you like) when its hot.
John
John
Sponsored Links
These are both first class oils, and ones that are often used on those vehicles with extended drain intervals.....i.e those cars that consider how many start ups, short and long runs the car has had, etc.
Use them with confidence....whether the extra expense is worth it, no one can truthfully say! If your car has been to the moon and back, don't bother.
Find out what the manufacturer recommends, stick with the specification and viscosity, and if you want to help your engine as much as you can, change the oil and filter more often than is recommended.
John
Use them with confidence....whether the extra expense is worth it, no one can truthfully say! If your car has been to the moon and back, don't bother.
Find out what the manufacturer recommends, stick with the specification and viscosity, and if you want to help your engine as much as you can, change the oil and filter more often than is recommended.
John
i wouldnt waste your money, find something from the likes of comma or carlube that meets the specs for your car.
Don't rule out supermarket oils either, they all meet the latest specifications.
http://tinyurl.com/a8n34h6
http://tinyurl.com/a8n34h6
changing regularly makes more difference than buying the most expensive oil.
Edit
Wilkinsons seem to be selling certain Castol oils at "half price"
See if there's any in your local branch, it's probably a stock clearance
http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/search?q=castrol
Edit
Wilkinsons seem to be selling certain Castol oils at "half price"
See if there's any in your local branch, it's probably a stock clearance
http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/search?q=castrol
+1! Use the cheapest that's recommended in your handbook. It will say something like "10W40 API Grade CF or ACEA B4"
If your engine is knocking and old and about to die anyway, you can go for a higher first number (which will make it more viscous on cold startup). That might buy you a bit more time. If your engine isn't knocking, you will put extra load on the oil pump or oil pump drive (pumping the thicker oil against the resistance of an engine with good tight bearings). You can nearly always go for a higher second number with little or no ill effect (other than a marginal decrease in engine power and marginal increase in fuel consumption) I use a 5W40 in my wife's diesel instead of the recommended 5W30 because it makes it sound a bit quieter.
The API grading system is American and seems to be falling out of favour these days with European car manufacturers, who are increasingly using the ACEA (European manufacturer's trade association) system of oil classification. There's a slight danger in using "the best" fully synthetic oils on older engines because they need the higher temperatures found in the most modern high performance engines to work properly. That said, I've never seen a car engine fail due to using too high an oil spec ONCE RUN-IN. (I've seen high oil consumption resulting from glazed bores because of running fully-synthetic oil from new). I've also heard of boat engines failing as a result of using modern oils (because boat engines run stone-cold and rarely for long enough to get up to operating temperature). For ordinary cars, I just think it's a waste of money. I'd sooner use a straight mineral oil and change it twice as often for the same money than use a fully synthetic on an engine that wasn't designed to use it originally. My last petrol engine did a quarter of a million miles and the car fell to bits around it. I gave it a variety of "mid-range-to-cheap" oils during the time I had it (including supermarket stuff on occasions)!
More here:
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained
If your engine is knocking and old and about to die anyway, you can go for a higher first number (which will make it more viscous on cold startup). That might buy you a bit more time. If your engine isn't knocking, you will put extra load on the oil pump or oil pump drive (pumping the thicker oil against the resistance of an engine with good tight bearings). You can nearly always go for a higher second number with little or no ill effect (other than a marginal decrease in engine power and marginal increase in fuel consumption) I use a 5W40 in my wife's diesel instead of the recommended 5W30 because it makes it sound a bit quieter.
The API grading system is American and seems to be falling out of favour these days with European car manufacturers, who are increasingly using the ACEA (European manufacturer's trade association) system of oil classification. There's a slight danger in using "the best" fully synthetic oils on older engines because they need the higher temperatures found in the most modern high performance engines to work properly. That said, I've never seen a car engine fail due to using too high an oil spec ONCE RUN-IN. (I've seen high oil consumption resulting from glazed bores because of running fully-synthetic oil from new). I've also heard of boat engines failing as a result of using modern oils (because boat engines run stone-cold and rarely for long enough to get up to operating temperature). For ordinary cars, I just think it's a waste of money. I'd sooner use a straight mineral oil and change it twice as often for the same money than use a fully synthetic on an engine that wasn't designed to use it originally. My last petrol engine did a quarter of a million miles and the car fell to bits around it. I gave it a variety of "mid-range-to-cheap" oils during the time I had it (including supermarket stuff on occasions)!
More here:
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained
Several years ago I was in the home (repairing his boiler!) of an oil technical bod and asked him if there was any difference between a good quality, recognised brand oil, and the cheaper brands.
His reply was that when new not really but the cheaper oils after they have been in the engine a few hundred miles simply do not perform as well as the 'better' brands.
True - false? He certainly wasn't trying to sell me oil, wrong market for his company.
His reply was that when new not really but the cheaper oils after they have been in the engine a few hundred miles simply do not perform as well as the 'better' brands.
True - false? He certainly wasn't trying to sell me oil, wrong market for his company.
i always try to buy a brand of some kind such as carlube or comma etc but thats just me. My factors stock a gm branded oil which i think is made by ac delco, 10/40 semi is £15 and 5/30 fully £20.
Never had any issues with them but as said previously regular changes makes a big difference.
Never had any issues with them but as said previously regular changes makes a big difference.
One thing that did get me a while back was the difference in prices from one place to another. I needed some oil to top up our Newish Peugeot Partner Tepee. I was going past the main dealer, and was silly enough to go in and buy a litre of Castrol. Can't remember the price, but it was the same as 5L of the same at Halfords! I couldn't be bothered to run around to get it at the time. Down here "I'll just go to" tends to be a 20mile round trip, but I won't get caught again like that!
Interesting about your Peugeot - would expect that normally But our 207 goes in to a Main Dealer ( Supplied it new ) and has Oil/Filter and MOT once a year and it cost £110 all in - with the book stamped I can`t buy the correct oil for less than £40 @ a Halfords or an independant . Must be one of the few Good Things in Sussex
But our 207 goes in to a Main Dealer ( Supplied it new ) and has Oil/Filter and MOT once a year and it cost £110 all in - with the book stamped I can`t buy the correct oil for less than £40 @ a Halfords or an independant . Must be one of the few Good Things in Sussex Either this gold contains flakes of solid gold, or you are paying for the name.
Sponsored Links
