Fitting ensuite shower

[chriselevate]

Should be OK & I would re-route the sink waste into the side of the new branch so it has it’s own connection to the stack.

So here I could leave the shower connected as is but re-route the sink into one of the sides of that new part I'd buy?

They are mostly in grey or black so you probability will have to paint if you want it to match.

Ok - that's fine.

Yes, it should slot straight into the branch & the AAAV will fit into the top of that.

Brilliant - I have a local trader who sells this waste pipe by the meter so I can just buy enough for what I need.

Same make so I guess so.

Brilliant - I'll order that then.

Just to add; if you don't have any window or opening within 900mm below or within 3m sideways, you don't need the Durgo valve, just fit an open vent cap to the top of the new stack.

The window in this picture is 1m above the top edge of the soil pipe. Does this mean I need the Durgo Valve? I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the regulations above? Where would the top of the pipe finish in my situation? Is the window in the way as it's directly above the pipe?

Impossible to say without looking at it; I always fit quality stone resin trays rather than GRP, they never flex or squeak.

Perhaps it's worth buying a new shower tray then? Or would you not bother? What would it cost for a quality stone resin tray? Would I get one the same shape and size so I could leave my waste pipe where it is etc?

For suspended floors & any type of wall panels, you must use a flexible adhesive. Personally I would use a proprietary flexible adhesive rather than mess about with latex additives - BAL Rapidset Flexible http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/rapidset-flexible or SPF http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/single-part-flexible or Kearaflex.
For solid walls & floors, the Keraquick will be OK on it’s own.

Those listed BAL products look expensive compared to Screwfix's http://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-keraflex-grey-5kg/43239 which is only £7.19 - would you stay clear of this? I guess the only difference between the two you listen is the bucket time?

I would use the Microflex or Microflex wide joint for the wall tiles & Superflex Wide Joint – http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/superflex-wide-joint for the floor tiles.

So the "microban" is a good thing to have? You'd suggest Microflex for the walls and Superflex for the floors? Can I not get away with just buying one grout for both purposes?

 

[Karis]

So here I could leave the shower connected as is but re-route the sink into one of the sides of that new part I'd buy?

Yes

The window in this picture is 1m above the top edge of the soil pipe. Does this mean I need the Durgo Valve? I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the regulations above? Where would the top of the pipe finish in my situation? Is the window in the way as it's directly above the pipe?

Yes it is, you need to fit a Durgo

Perhaps it's worth buying a new shower tray then? Or would you not bother? What would it cost for a quality stone resin tray? Would I get one the same shape and size so I could leave my waste pipe where it is etc?

IMO, a decent stone resin tray is far superior to some of the flimsy GRP mouldings around but they must be correctly installed. You can get any size & practically any waste configuration imaginable

Those listed BAL products look expensive compared to Screwfix's http://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-keraflex-grey-5kg/43239 which is only £7.19 - would you stay clear of this? I guess the only difference between the two you listen is the bucket time?

By choice, I only use BAL; it is expensive (especially from Topps) but with this stuff, you tend to get what you pay for & it’s never let me down. Mapei trade (not Buildfix sold in the sheds) is also good & many swear by it, you just need to pick the correct products for your application.

So the "microban" is a good thing to have? You'd suggest Microflex for the walls

It’s anti-bacterial & is all I even use for walls, including wet areas.

and Superflex for the floors? Can I not get away with just buying one grout for both purposes?

The formulation of grout is largely to do with flexibility & the width of the grout joints. Microflex is for walls not floors, Superflex is for walls but doesn’t have Microban. Microflex wide joint is for floors, Superflex wide joint is also suitable for floors. You may get away using just one type but why risk it, grout costs very little & it’s not worth the risk. I told you what I would use in my last post, perhaps you should read the respective spec sheets & decide for yourself.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks Karis,

That all makes sense to me. I'll follow your instructions and give it a go!

As for the stone resin tray. Where would you advise buying this from? Any particular tray? Low profile will be fine will it? Obviously I could do with it sooner rather than later but if there's somewhere good online worth waiting for then I'm happy to do that.

I guess to fit this I'll simply need to sit it on the bed of 6:1 building sand/plastering sand and cement like you talked about earlier in the post?

Thanks again for your help

 

[chriselevate]

Hi Karis,

I've been out and bought all my products from Topps tiles as they gave me a good deal in the end.

I've bought:
BAL WP1 Wterproof Kit - I've just finished applying this (primer and 2 coats of the product with a brush)

BAL Single-Part Flex Grey (for walls and floor)

BAL Micromax Grout Manilla - the guy said I could then use this on the floor and walls - is this correct or should I take it back and swap it for micro and super flex?

He sold me a combination trowel which has 6mm square (for floor) and 10x20mm round notched (for walls).

I have some 2mm and 3mm spacers so will decide which to use when I do the job tomorrow.

Is this all correct?

Thanks

 

[calorific]

6mm square is for the walls!

 

[chriselevate]

Sorry... wrong way round then?!

 

[chriselevate]

Hi Karis,

I've been out and bought all my products from Topps tiles as they gave me a good deal in the end.

I've bought:
BAL WP1 Wterproof Kit - I've just finished applying this (primer and 2 coats of the product with a brush)

BAL Single-Part Flex Grey (for walls and floor)

BAL Micromax Grout Manilla - the guy said I could then use this on the floor and walls - is this correct or should I take it back and swap it for micro and super flex?

He sold me a combination trowel which has 6mm square (for walls) and 10x20mm round notched (for floor).

I have some 2mm and 3mm spacers so will decide which to use when I do the job tomorrow.

Is this all correct?

Thanks

 

[calorific]

This is like groundhog day

 

[chriselevate]

I was just wanting to know the thoughts in this:
BAL Micromax Grout Manilla - the guy said I could then use this on the floor and walls - is this correct or should I take it back and swap it for micro and super flex?

And if the trowel choices were ok as topps didn't really seem to know much about them! Hence the reason for them confusing me in the first post!

 

[calorific]

Karis has already told you what he thinks, and I agree with him.

As the bloke in a TILE shop didn't have a clue about which spreader to use for adhesive, it does tend to make any subsequent advice he gives about product choice a bit suspect since he's obviously never actually done any tiles.

Have you actually put the tiles up yet?

 

[chriselevate]

Well the bloke in topps seemed to be asking another guy for help all the tons so I lost confidence.

No tiling has been done yet, no.

What do you think to the previous post? What do you think to the grout he's sold me?

Thanks

 

[calorific]

I think you should get that shower tray in and those tiles up and then follow Karis advice regarding the grout.

 

[chriselevate]

Hi Calorific,

I've got the shower tray in nicely. It fitted well and connected to fine.

I've now got the flooring down (I re-did it as it was in too many pieces for my liking). Can I just query one thing....

One of my pieces of ply (a long piece) is sitting 2mm lower than the one it joins too. I think this is due to the batten (sistered to a joist) bring slightly too low. Shall I carry on regardless or lift it and try to pack it where it's shallow? (it is out by literally 2mm max)

If you'd pack it.... what would you pack it with? Obviously I'm tryin to stop movement so I'm not sure of the best thing to do here.

Thanks

 

[calorific]

Are you saying that the two edges are of different height by a couple of mm because they don't actually rest on the same joist, but instead one rests on a joist and the other on a timber screwed to this joist?

If so, then you have got a potential weak point which will quite probably separate slightly over time. What sort of floor covering do you intend? If it's ceramic tiles then I'd be mightily worried about this movement cracking them.

 

[chriselevate]

I get what you're saying and can see the being a problem.

It's really difficult to tell what's going on. I'm kinda wondering if its as you said or it it's just that the board butting up to it is slightly high due to something under it kicking it up slightly?!

I do know that the lower board is definitely sat on 1/2 inch of joist at one end and its low there too so I'm guessing its the board that is high that might be the problem. Either way they are all screwed down REALLY tight and seem to be very secure.

Hmmmm.... any thoughts?