Flymo Quicksilver 46 SD running badly

[pidgeon1]

Fylmo Quicksilver 46 SD Briggs and stratton engine, unable to see engine number.

Just picked one of these very neglected !

Air filter blocked completely wash with petrol but it's beyond keeping

the mower runs but hunts black smoke at times,

would this need a Diaphragm ??

Looked on web and they all look the same Briggs And Stratton Diaphragm.

Would this be correct or is there a difference .

Thanks for any help.

 

[Burnerman]

You'll notice the carb sits on top of the fuel tank, therefore the fuel needs to be pumped up a little for the engine to start.
It's best to remove the tank and carb complete from the engine (two bolts, unhook the throttle linkage).
The carb fixes to the tank with 6 philips screws and between the two is a gasket and pump diaphragm that you need to replace.
The diaphragm goes onto the tank first, gasket on top and the tank has drillings that need to be clear.
Looking at the carb, you'll see a fine gauze filter and a dip pipe with a filter on the end - again these need to be clean together with the chamber the dip pipe fits into. Look out for a spring when the gasket comes clear.....it's supposed to be captive but isn't.
I'd recommend flushing the tank with clean fuel but if it's at all rusty then replace it - all you need is available from GHS Ltd.
John

 

[pidgeon1]

You'll notice the carb sits on top of the fuel tank, therefore the fuel needs to be pumped up a little for the engine to start.
It's best to remove the tank and carb complete from the engine (two bolts, unhook the throttle linkage).
The carb fixes to the tank with 6 philips screws and between the two is a gasket and pump diaphragm that you need to replace.
The diaphragm goes onto the tank first, gasket on top and the tank has drillings that need to be clear.
Looking at the carb, you'll see a fine gauze filter and a dip pipe with a filter on the end - again these need to be clean together with the chamber the dip pipe fits into. Look out for a spring when the gasket comes clear.....it's supposed to be captive but isn't.
I'd recommend flushing the tank with clean fuel but if it's at all rusty then replace it - all you need is available from GHS Ltd.
John

Thanks Burnerman, you are are a mind of information, only wish I had the knowledge.

 

[Burnerman]

All an illusion mate
Post back if your machine is truly ancient and has a spring loaded mixture screw, meaning it has a pulsa jet carb- very few of those around now.
Enjoy the mechanicals!
John

 

[pidgeon1]

Please see attached photos
Should the throttle auto adjuster have a bend to stop it going the full way ?
Pic of carb ( now it's had a gunk wash to remove soil and grass )
Pic of info plate.
Dose the wheel drive need any oil / grease ?

Looks like a Grandad shed project to keep me busy.

Thanking you for your help

 

[Burnerman]

The engine looks like its a fixed speed variety, rather than one that is fitted with a throttle cable - therefore once the machine is running you can lock its run speed by bending the lower of the two brackets you can see.....in real life this may not be necessary so get the machine starting and running well first.
Another couple of things to watch....
You see the rubber elbow on the crankcase breather pipe? That also works the fuel pumping system and needs to be air tight - a cable tie or two works fine here.
Once the carb has been repaired with a new diaphragm etc, watch for the jet of fuel (air cleaner off) when you push the red primer bulb. The engine will start after one or two pulls on the starter.
It's a good move to remove the top fan cover as you'll find the fins caked in dirt, more than likely and this can cause local over heating. You'll also see the wind vane governor lever which should be free to swing.....that connects to the throttle linkage.
I'm sorry but I don't know what you mean when you refer to the wheel drive - could you come back on that one?
John

 

[Tricky-Dicky]

Don't know if it helps, but the carb looks like the one on my Sealy lawnmower, with a Briggs & Stratton 500 engine.
It's a fixed speed machine. But I tweaked it to variable speed (with a limited range) by adding a universal throttle cable and control from eBay several years ago. See pictures. I worked out which lever on the carb altered the speed, all the required fixing holes etc were already on the machine. Great little engine, 3 pumps on the primer, 3 pulls on the starter rope and off if goes. Restarts on a warm engine just takes one leisurely pull on the rope handle.
Hope this is useful

 

[pidgeon1]

The engine looks like its a fixed speed variety, rather than one that is fitted with a throttle cable - therefore once the machine is running you can lock its run speed by bending the lower of the two brackets you can see.....in real life this may not be necessary so get the machine starting and running well first.
Another couple of things to watch....
You see the rubber elbow on the crankcase breather pipe? That also works the fuel pumping system and needs to be air tight - a cable tie or two works fine here.
Once the carb has been repaired with a new diaphragm etc, watch for the jet of fuel (air cleaner off) when you push the red primer bulb. The engine will start after one or two pulls on the starter.
It's a good move to remove the top fan cover as you'll find the fins caked in dirt, more than likely and this can cause local over heating. You'll also see the wind vane governor lever which should be free to swing.....that connects to the throttle linkage.
I'm sorry but I don't know what you mean when you refer to the wheel drive - could you come back on that one?
John

Wheel Drive, I was referring when you engage the drive e.g. rear wheels drive, not very good at explaining the right words, does this need and maintenance oil/ grease.

 

[pidgeon1]

Don't know if it helps, but the carb looks like the one on my Sealy lawnmower, with a Briggs & Stratton 500 engine.
It's a fixed speed machine. But I tweaked it to variable speed (with a limited range) by adding a universal throttle cable and control from eBay several years ago. See pictures. I worked out which lever on the carb altered the speed, all the required fixing holes etc were already on the machine. Great little engine, 3 pumps on the primer, 3 pulls on the starter rope and off if goes. Restarts on a warm engine just takes one leisurely pull on the rope handle.
Hope this is usefulView attachment 236993 View attachment 236994 View attachment 236995 View attachment 236996

Top marks for fitting your adjustable throttle, maybe in the future for me.

 

[Burnerman]

Yes, its wise to pop the wheels off and clean out the rubbish within.
Dont lube the plastic gears but the small drive pinion has a drive pin inside. Remove the circlip and pull the gear away - look for any washers either side which act as shims. Locate the pin and grease the surrounding housing. Some pins are round and are reversible, some arent so check for this!
Some spray grease can be beneficial where the axle passes through bushes / supports but designs vary. The gearbox is sealed and is full of oil and no parts are available so if it fails it becomes a push machine!
Smear some grease on any exposed cable ends and thats about it.
If you are working on the deck underside, only tip the machine back on its handles, never on its sides to prevent oil escape.
John

 

[pidgeon1]

Yes, its wise to pop the wheels off and clean out the rubbish within.
Dont lube the plastic gears but the small drive pinion has a drive pin inside. Remove the circlip and pull the gear away - look for any washers either side which act as shims. Locate the pin and grease the surrounding housing. Some pins are round and are reversible, some arent so check for this!
Some spray grease can be beneficial where the axle passes through bushes / supports but designs vary. The gearbox is sealed and is full of oil and no parts are available so if it fails it becomes a push machine!
Smear some grease on any exposed cable ends and thats about it.
If you are working on the deck underside, only tip the machine back on its handles, never on its sides to prevent oil escape.
John

Thanks, will be draining oil so should be OK to lay on it's side.

 

[Burnerman]

Sure, fuel tank aside that will be fine - but if there is oil in there, tipping on one side fills the air cleaner and the other the exhaust silencer
Check out the blade and it's driving boss at the same time? The blade may have two securing lugs, part of the aluminium boss and they are prone to shearing off if the owner tends to mow concrete
If there are no lugs then there will be a sprung domed washer that flattens when the bolt is tightened, keeping things under tension.
The bolt size is R/H thread, 14mm or 9/16" AF but you occasionally come across machines with an allen screw in there.
John

 

[pidgeon1]

Laid the mower on it's handles.
And looks like I have oil in the combustion camber, When I use the pull start it hanks it out my and and has a lot of compression and is not starting ??

A neighbor has suggested remove plug squit petrol into plug hole and pull start a few times then let it dry out.
Is this a good idea ?? or is there a better solution.
Stumped at the moment.

 

[Burnerman]

If I have this issue (petrol being more common than oil) I just whip the plug out and crank the engine a few times......a good blast of compressed air helps too if you have it.
Perhaps more importantly, how did it get there? Petrol is obvious enough if the engine has been tilted but oil somewhat less so. Anyway, expect 5 minutes of blue smoke when it starts up!
John

 

[pidgeon1]

If I have this issue (petrol being more common than oil) I just whip the plug out and crank the engine a few times......a good blast of compressed air helps too if you have it.
Perhaps more importantly, how did it get there? Petrol is obvious enough if the engine has been tilted but oil somewhat less so. Anyway, expect 5 minutes of blue smoke when it starts up!
John

Thanks John

Is what is coursing the added compression ?

As it took the pull cord right out of my hand ( painful).

If your suggestion dose not work whats the next step ?

Will take out the plug and leave overnight..