Flymo Quicksilver 46 SD running badly

[lostinthelight]

Added compression is caused by oil giving a better seal between the rings and bore, also if theres enough of it it can temporary reduce volume above the piston.
What John says will work, have faith

 

[pidgeon1]

Added compression is caused by oil giving a better seal between the rings and bore, also if theres enough of it it can temporary reduce volume above the piston.
What John says will work, have faith

Have faith phew , I have two very bruised fingers where the pull cord snapped back.

plug out anther look at this tomorrow.

 

[pidgeon1]

Changed the Diaphragm,new air filter and plug.

Had the plug in and it snap back with violent

Even without the plug in its very hard to pull start.

Could this be oil on the rings ??

Stumped now what to do next.

 

[Burnerman]

Without the plug in, the engine should spin really freely.....assuming that the flywheel brake isn't on, of course! Check the dead man cable to check that it is releasing.
John

 

[pidgeon1]

Without the plug in, the engine should spin really freely.....assuming that the flywheel brake isn't on, of course! Check the dead man cable to check that it is releasing.
John

Thanks
John

Good point,will check cable.

It was releasing before the strip down but saying that the handles have been folded down .

 

[Burnerman]

Unfortunately, folding the handles always gives the cables a hard time.....I recommend that they are left in the fixed, user position wherever possible.
Please be aware, the flywheel brake spring is pretty strong!
John

 

[pidgeon1]

Unfortunately, folding the handles always gives the cables a hard time.....I recommend that they are left in the fixed, user position wherever possible.
Please be aware, the flywheel brake spring is pretty strong!
John

Going to check brake handle Sunday with Wifes help.
Will look on web how to adjust this. never had to it before.

 

[Burnerman]

If you can post a pic of the flywheel brake, maybe I can help.....basically a cable just pulls a lever which keeps the brake free of the flywheel.
It also usually incorporates an electrical cut out which stops the engine.
You'll never start the thing if the brake is on!
John

 

[pidgeon1]

Well got it going this morning as you said big blow of black smoke to start with.

Adjusted the flywheel brake full on and off ( may have over done this see Pics)

Still hunts a bit after new Diaphragm and cleaning of the carb.

After reassembly of the fuel tank are the springs in the right place ?

Maybe because when I ordered Diaphragm , plug and air filter I thought I was getting genuine B&S no such luck, so much for Flee bay, will not be court out again.


Thanks for you assistance John.

 

[Burnerman]

The flywheel brake looks fine - so long as it disengages when you pull the dead man handlebar and then cuts the engine and brakes it when you release, that's it.
As far as I can see, the carb control springs look to be correct but you may be able to alter the running speed by moving the bracket that the bigger spring is fitted to.....giving it slightly more tension, perhaps.
Regarding the hunting, not every engine likes to run at a constant speed (although these ones are pretty good as a rule, to be fair) and if you notice the white air vane governor arm it may be moving a little as it tries to stabilise the engine speed - this is normal but the engine shouldn't chuff any smoke at all.
After all your work I guess the only thing you can really do is replace the carb but I doubt if it would be worth it, quite frankly, but keep the minimum of oil on the foam air cleaner element to prevent the engine running rich. Likewise, don't overfill the engine sump - a 10/40 semi synthetic oil is just fine, although a straight 30 grade oil is recommended. That's because a straight grade oil stays in viscosity better than a multigrade brew as air cooled engines run at a variety of temperatures.
Good work and well done!
John

 

[pidgeon1]

The flywheel brake looks fine - so long as it disengages when you pull the dead man handlebar and then cuts the engine and brakes it when you release, that's it.
As far as I can see, the carb control springs look to be correct but you may be able to alter the running speed by moving the bracket that the bigger spring is fitted to.....giving it slightly more tension, perhaps.
Regarding the hunting, not every engine likes to run at a constant speed (although these ones are pretty good as a rule, to be fair) and if you notice the white air vane governor arm it may be moving a little as it tries to stabilise the engine speed - this is normal but the engine shouldn't chuff any smoke at all.
After all your work I guess the only thing you can really do is replace the carb but I doubt if it would be worth it, quite frankly, but keep the minimum of oil on the foam air cleaner element to prevent the engine running rich. Likewise, don't overfill the engine sump - a 10/40 semi synthetic oil is just fine, although a straight 30 grade oil is recommended. That's because a straight grade oil stays in viscosity better than a multigrade brew as air cooled engines run at a variety of temperatures.
Good work and well done!
John

Thanks John

It was a relief to get it done, the last owner had neglected he mower.
When I took the cover off the flywheel brake it was full of soil, good brushing and a blast from a air blower cleaned it.

Took 2 liters of oil to clean sump, now refresh with new oil cutting grass Monday.

 

[pidgeon1]

Mowers going Ok But the Governor spring has been replaced at sometime , this ones very strong the vane is pulled tight,

Anybody with the B/S part No for a replacement.
Thanks

 

[lostinthelight]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14310315...-53481-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001

 

[pidgeon1]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14310315...-53481-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001

Thanks , you are about early .

 

[lostinthelight]

Thanks , you are about early .

We usually have a cup of around 5 ish, can't afford to waste time snoozing at my age