Garage Door- Selection and surrounding brickwork/frame

9 Jan 2006
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United Kingdom
OK then, i`ve got my No. of brick estimate sorted, i have some very rough plans/ sketch's but what i`m now uncertain of is the brickwork surrounding an up and over door, and how it should be constructed.

I have a garage door in mind, 3048x 1981 from here or somewhere similar:

The elevation for the garage face which will house the door is 4m x 2.1m to eaves. Leaving half a metre each side of the door.

the garage door has a 75mm external frame to account for, does this bolt directly to the brickwork? or is it usually screwed to a wooden frame installed inside of the brickwork opening? I need to go look at a good garage install to get this right in my head, i dont want to get the brickwork specified incorectly.

Another question, i have 2100mm to eaves and 1981+75 for garage and frame, leaving me with (sh*t) 41mm. Thats not going to work is it...... I`m not going to be able to get a lintel in there to support a 3m span with brickwork on top of it.

Or can i use something like this:

to support the opening and lay a course or two of bricks to hide it, making my eaves slightly taller than 2.1, say 2.26. Means i`ll have a rubbish roof pitch as i`m limited to 2.5m ridge height.

advice needed on eaves height, opening, door frame construction.


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A typical garage door sits within a frame, known in the trade as 'goal posts'. This is usually 3" x 3" finished timber, i.e. planed all round or p.a.r. for short.

So, for example, a 7' x 7' garage door will need an opening size of 7'-6" wide and 7'-3" tall.

If the brickwork forming the garage door opening allows, it is possible to set the posts or frame back from the external face thus affording you greater lintel height. This would mean forming deep return brickwork to deal with the set back. You could form the soffit so that it deals with the gap formed across the head of the door.

Don't forget that the wall plate can sit directly on top of the lintel so no need for any brickwork across the top unless you are forming a gable above of course....?
Super Info. I think i can get the gist of that.

I was going to build a gable, thus the need for catnic etc to support the brickwork, but thinking about it i could easily not build above the door opening in brickwork, building the piers up to the eaves height at the door location.

I could then install the timber goalpost frame to the piers, inset slightly from the garage front face and UPVC or wooden panel between the ridge and eaves/goalpost frame. (Have i got that correct?)

This would retain my eaves height of 2.1m, giving me a slightly less flat roof, and also means not having to fork out for a lintel. Is this too cowboy though, i`ve got my 5000 eng spec bricks for free, so i`m trying to make the most of them.

Being as i`m planning 1.5 brick piers at the door opening i could recess the goalpost frame, and install the 215mm height catnic infront of the door. Again keeping my 2.1m eaves, and having a brick built gable. I guess there are no problems with recessing the door frame and sitting the lintel slightly lower than the top of the door frame- as long as i can still get the door fully open, which it might not in that situation?

or am i talking rubbish and i`ve not understood the info you have kindly given to me?

Really appreciated

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The lintel or indeed the brickwork can interfere with the frame but NOT the door itself.

It is even possible for the aperture to be only marginally larger than the actual door itself. This can be achieved by sitting the frame behind the brickwork rather than between it, if you get my drift.

It is a riskier option but achievable.

So long as the door and its mechanisms can facilitate the doors' opening and closing then fill ya boots.

You need to imagine that the garage door is fixed within the frame then transfer the whole operation (door, frame and all) and see how it will work in differing masonry apertures.

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