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Grinding chisles back into shape

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I have a few wrecked chisels and I'm wondering if they could be re-shaped to somehow grind the sharpe edge which is wrecked. It was used by its former owner to cut bricks :-0. I tried to use a course sharpening stone for that to no avail. I don't mind giving it to someone to do this for me but am not sure how to search for a tradesperson who does this. Or should i dump these chisles? TIA
 
The short answer is yes.

If you have a grinding wheel, that's ideal.

If not, then I sometimes clamp a belt sander upside down onto a work bench and use that to grind them - it seems wrong somehow, but it works!

Or find a local repair cafe
 
The short answer is yes.

If you have a grinding wheel, that's ideal.

If not, then I sometimes clamp a belt sander upside down onto a work bench and use that to grind them - it seems wrong somehow, but it works!

Or find a local repair cafe
I have a belt sander and a work bench. But how to i hold the chisel at the correct angle?
 
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The angle isn't critical, but should be something like the original. You could likely improvise a guide/jig if you're not confident at judging the angle.
 
Unless you use a water cooled stone or have it professionally ground, you risk heating the metal up too much and thus softening it so it won't hold a good edge.
 
I have a few wrecked chisels and I'm wondering if they could be re-shaped to somehow grind the sharpe edge which is wrecked. It was used by its former owner to cut bricks :-0. I tried to use a course sharpening stone for that to no avail. I don't mind giving it to someone to do this for me but am not sure how to search for a tradesperson who does this. Or should i dump these chisles? TIA
As per Woody above. Also may need quenching etc.

The really important bit is keeping a nicely ground, dead flat shiny back, to the chisel. We are constantly touching our chisels up on the oilstone and always start with the chisel flat on the stone first. The sloping edge requires only a modest touch.

The worst thing is when you strike an old screw. :mad:
 
I don’t think a belt sander is the correct tool for this, but a belt linisher could be.
As stated, overheating must be avoided but it’s not difficult to re - temper a chisel.
John
 
I used to use a belt sander on the lowest speed, but I always messed up my angles.

During lockdown I purchased a Record 10" wet wheel.


It is a nice bit of kit but really, really slow at removing a lot of stock (given that I had messed up the angles on my chisels). Perfect for sharpening chisels that haven't hit screws, or been badly sharpened before.

I paid £250, on reflection, I wish I had paid double that and purchased a Sorby linisher (a glorified but accurate belt sander). The latter being much faster.


With regards to chisel sharpening services, here in London, the going rate seems to be about £7 for a 1.5" chisel, but more if it has chips in it. It may be cheaper to buy a new chisel if you are only working with soft woods.
 
I paid £250, on reflection, I wish I had paid double that and purchased a Sorby linisher (a glorified but accurate belt sander). The latter being much faster.

thats what we have and its good

but as @^woody^ says above you have to keep the temperature down,, restoring a chisel start off with 60 grit (the coarser the grit the less heat build up) and have a cup of water to keep dipping it in (if you let the chisel tip blue its finished)
I just go up to 600 grit to keep a sharp edge on them - some people swaer by 1200g or even 2000, not sure if i ever see the benifit
 
thats what we have and its good

but as @^woody^ says above you have to keep the temperature down,, restoring a chisel start off with 60 grit (the coarser the grit the less heat build up) and have a cup of water to keep dipping it in (if you let the chisel tip blue its finished)
I just go up to 600 grit to keep a sharp edge on them - some people swaer by 1200g or even 2000, not sure if i ever see the benifit

Thanks for the heads up.
 

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