Grundfos ups3 making noise

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Hi all, I got a grundfos ups3 it's on the 3 setting and as per the attached video it makes a loud noise. This can be heard in the landing and ground floor 2 and the pump is the loft.

I believe I have installed it correctly however I always get confused regarding the shaft orientation.

I have installed it as the top right image however my cable is on the bottom, installed in the directional flow. The body is facing the side and not upwards.

I can hear water ticking in some of the upstairs radiators but not in the downstairs ones.

11 radiators in total 9 are large type 22 (1.8m x 60, 1.6 x 70 etc) large 4 bed extended house

Is the speed too high?

Getting into the loft to change speed settings everyday isn't easy, loft hatch in the corner of a bedroom that requires removal of furniture and then crawling back into the other side of the loft!

 

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Pump arrow faces towards motorised valves. Without seeing the whole system, wouldn’t have a clue. Open vented or sealed systerm
 
Pump arrow faces towards motorised valves. Without seeing the whole system, wouldn’t have a clue. Open vented or sealed systerm
Yes it does. Apologies don't have a pic of the setup

But it's installed like this with the motorised valve on the left side.

Open vented system.
 

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THe UPS3 is a very powerful pump that will still maintain well over a 6M head with flowrate of over 19LPM on speed3, suggest, initially, changing to constant pressure (CP) setting 1 which is a constant 3.0M head, it will certainly reduce the noise, if too weak suggest changing to constant speed 1 which is still a 4.2M head.
 
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THe UPS3 is a very powerful pump that will still maintain well over a 6M head with flowrate of over 19LPM on speed3, suggest, initially, changing to constant pressure (CP) setting 1 which is a constant 3.0M head, it will certainly reduce the noise, if too weak suggest changing to constant speed 1 which is still a 4.2M head.
Is constant pressure the one that it automatically fluctuates?
 
THe UPS3 is a very powerful pump that will still maintain well over a 6M head with flowrate of over 19LPM on speed3, suggest, initially, changing to constant pressure (CP) setting 1 which is a constant 3.0M head, it will certainly reduce the noise, if too weak suggest changing to constant speed 1 which is still a 4.2M head.

Slow down Tommy.


For PP/CP pumps, you have to know the system layout.
If this has been swapped for a CS pump, then there may be issues with the boiler bypass if fitted.


To the OP:
1) does this pump replace another? If so, what was the other pump (Old 3 speed or modern variable speed).
2) If it replaced an old CS pump, then you need to go and check out the bypass arrangement if fitted. If it is a ABV, then unless you want hours of fannying around, you should use the pump in CS mode only.
3) if the old pump was a PP/CP pump, then you may also be able to operate this pump in PP/CS mode but be aware that the installed of the old pump may have thought the same as the point above.
 
Slow down Tommy.


For PP/CP pumps, you have to know the system layout.
If this has been swapped for a CS pump, then there may be issues with the boiler bypass if fitted.


To the OP:
1) does this pump replace another? If so, what was the other pump (Old 3 speed or modern variable speed).
2) If it replaced an old CS pump, then you need to go and check out the bypass arrangement if fitted. If it is a ABV, then unless you want hours of fannying around, you should use the pump in CS mode only.
3) if the old pump was a PP/CP pump, then you may also be able to operate this pump in PP/CS mode but be aware that the installed of the old pump may have thought the same as the point above.
I've had this for a few years, replaced it a couple times however. Either due to sludge or incorrect setting /installation. A powerflush was done last month and I replaced it again as I thought the rads weren't getting hot enough.

Originally I had the old type grundfos ups15 50 I believe the ones with 3 fixed speed settings and that used to be on the highest setting.

There is a red gate ABV fitted.

Can you please explain CS?
 

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Pump modes:
CS= Constant speed. (old type)
PP= Proportional Pressure (Variable speed brought in to reduce power consumption on a EU wide basis)
CP= Constant Pressure (For UFH).

If you have a Red handled Gate valve (Not an ABV) as a bypass, that is manual.
(I dunno what voodoo Plumbers use to set the constant flow rate though. I would suggest 1/2 turn and see how you go. Perhaps others can advise.)
For a manual bypass, the boiler will have a minimum flow through rate you should be adhering to.
Thus, when all the valves close (Zone, etc) the boiler still has somewhere to dump heat.

Normally, you set the pump to the lowest you can get away with.
So, with a manual bypass, Set the pump to PP mode 1.
If that is unsatisfactory, set it to PP Mode 2.

If that is unsatisfactory, then you need to look at the plumbing schematic and make sure the bypass is correct, etc.

If you have a ABV (SPring loaded automatic bypass valve), then you can't use it with a pump in PP mode. You should switch to CP mode (Constant speed) and again, walk up the speeds until you get a satisfactory outcome.


Others can chirp in on the above if agree/disagree.
This is my experience.
 
Pump modes:
CS= Constant speed. (old type)
PP= Proportional Pressure (Variable speed brought in to reduce power consumption on a EU wide basis)
CP= Constant Pressure (For UFH).

If you have a Red handled Gate valve (Not an ABV) as a bypass, that is manual.
(I dunno what voodoo Plumbers use to set the constant flow rate though. I would suggest 1/2 turn and see how you go. Perhaps others can advise.)
For a manual bypass, the boiler will have a minimum flow through rate you should be adhering to.
Thus, when all the valves close (Zone, etc) the boiler still has somewhere to dump heat.

Normally, you set the pump to the lowest you can get away with.
So, with a manual bypass, Set the pump to PP mode 1.
If that is unsatisfactory, set it to PP Mode 2.

If that is unsatisfactory, then you need to look at the plumbing schematic and make sure the bypass is correct, etc.

If you have a ABV (SPring loaded automatic bypass valve), then you can't use it with a pump in PP mode. You should switch to CP mode (Constant speed) and again, walk up the speeds until you get a satisfactory outcome.


Others can chirp in on the above if agree/disagree.
This is my experience.
Thanks for the response guys.

I don't know if it's linked with this other problem I'm having where I have now changed the 3 port valve and the problem still persists.

It was intermittent last week but this week it's really playing up. Neither heating or hot water come on, despite getting voltage upstairs. Sometimes it does come on. There's no fault codes on the boiler.

Someone has said it might be the thermistor.

 
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Try this first...

suggest, initially, changing to constant pressure (CP) setting 1 which is a constant 3.0M head, it will certainly reduce the noise, if too weak suggest changing to constant speed 1 which is still a 4.2M head.
 

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