Help for boiler installed without Bypass and without overrun

What make and model was the original boiler?

..........and to say there may be an issue powering the circulator via the motor valve end switches is laughable. :LOL:

In reading your posts it is clear the original installation (25/30 years ago) was/is a complete lash up.

BTW...What controls did you install on the original system? , ie: 'S' plan , 'Y'.............

Glow Worm Space Saver 45-60B

There is an issue when the circulator is not connected to the boiler (to make use of pump over run and frost protection). There was also an issue that it blew up the switches in the valves. Probably a manufacturers cost reduction exercise.

'S' Plan, 'Y' ...? Those were brought in later for those that didn't understand electrics to be able to wire up the controls without having to think about it. 3 zones 3 thermostats. Upstairs Downstairs and DHW. But of course no pump over-run etc and hence circulator wired to zone valve switches. Oh and the upstairs thermostat through its own time switch set up to back off the temperature during the night instead of turning the heating off completely.

So it was a complete lash up that continued to work successfully for 25 years, without the use of TRV's to get the temperatures correct, instead relying on balancing correctly with the lockshields. :D :D
 
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As to replacing the rads and boiler. The rads were 25 years old at the time and a high probability that with the amount of sludge being produced in the system the walls of the rads had been corroded so much that they were thin and liable to pin holes. The boiler was forever banging and crashing, stressing the heat exchanger and not exactly conducive to a long service life. The circulating sludge would also be grinding away at the innards of the heat exchanger, as it had to the bearings of the (2nd) pump.

Had YOU of installed this system properly then you wouldn't be in the situation you are in now. :LOL:

:idea: maybe your family should be taking YOU to court for installing a
system that wasn't fit for purpose.

Please read the previous post. Oh I forgot, that is a problem ...... :D
 
I can read.......

You stated that YOU installed the original system 30 odd years ago (i was installing S/Y/C/W plans back in 78 ) to which you also stated the radiators were 'pinholed' which suggets the system was not installed correctly in the first place.

So your original installation used 3 motorised valves? (S plan).

You obviously haven't got a clue what your talking about so I suggest you shut up before making a bigger fool of yourself.
 
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* Installer has been back several times but can't/won't correct, pump stops as soon as no demand, as indicated by the sudden stop of bearing noise (needs 3rd pump in 3 years).

Did you not specify that the installer correct all original faults that were caused by you?

You knew the system had an inherent problem but obviously did nothing about it?

What exactly did the guy who fitted the new boiler actually price for?

Considering you class yourself as a competent DIYer regarding heating installations then why the hell did you not have the original fook up corrected when the replacement boiler was installed?

I would take a guess that the original installation had the pump fitted to the return. :p
 
I can read.......

You stated that YOU installed the original system 30 odd years ago (i was installing S/Y/C/W plans back in 78 ) to which you also stated the radiators were 'pinholed' which suggets the system was not installed correctly in the first place.

So your original installation used 3 motorised valves? (S plan).

You obviously haven't got a clue what your talking about so I suggest you shut up before making a bigger fool of yourself.

Please read carefully. The original rads were fine until the cowboy got to work. There was so much crud in the system from the pump over that there was a danger that the rads would end up with pinholes very soon. Black sludge == ferrous oxide == the insides of the rads.

Ok so you needed the simplified diagram for connecting everything together. I didn't.
 
* Installer has been back several times but can't/won't correct, pump stops as soon as no demand, as indicated by the sudden stop of bearing noise (needs 3rd pump in 3 years).

Did you not specify that the installer correct all original faults that were caused by you?

You knew the system had an inherent problem but obviously did nothing about it?

What exactly did the guy who fitted the new boiler actually price for?

Considering you class yourself as a competent DIYer regarding heating installations then why the hell did you not have the original fook up corrected when the replacement boiler was installed?

I would take a guess that the original installation had the pump fitted to the return. :p

No faults, the system had been working well for 25 years. The messed up pump was the one the installer had fitted, well it was the second one 'cause he had put an automatic air vent vertically above the first pump he installed and the air vent leaked.

Please specify the original fook up.

Yes the pump was in the return, as was the recommended flavour at the time.

The installer was asked to supply and fit a new boiler, making any mods necessary as required by the requirements of the new boiler. All pipework had been brought back to the vicinity of the boiler so no ripping up of floorboards required.
 
Where did you install the cold feed from expansion cistern in relation to the pump and open vent?

I am referring to the original installation that YOU installed.
 
Where did you install the cold feed from expansion cistern in relation to the pump and open vent?

I am referring to the original installation that YOU installed.

On the flow side of the boiler as close as the fittings would allow.
 

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