Help with Estimate

[nordberg73]

Hi,

I've received the following from a local electrician:

Hallway (2 lights, 3 switches, 1 socket) Reception 1 (1 light, 1 switch, 4 sockets), Receptiuon 2 (1 light 1 switch, 4 sockets) Kitchen (1 light 1 switch 6 sockets) 3 Bedrooms (3x 1 light, 1 switch 4 sockets) Bathroom (1 light, 1 switch) fire alarm to LD2 and 17th edition distribution board with new tails and main bonding. 5 days in total - £2400

Firstly, can someone translate what LD2, 17th edition board, new tails and bonding is? Secondly, does this sound reasonable price-wise (this estimate is supplied blindly and a site survey would be done to further exact the price). I appreciate there's a lot of room for interpretation etc and every job is different.....

THanks.

 

[Steve]

The quote sounds very resonable IMO, even for Yorkshire (whereabouts?).

Will the place be occupied during the work? Will you help by removing floorboards, chasing walls?

LD2 is a fire reg I believe. You should have one per level.
17th edition is the wiring regs that are in force now. Consumer units with two RCDs protecting all circuits are often referred to as 17th edition units, because they satisfy the newest part of the regs, which generally require RCD protection for every circuit, but discourage the use of only one RCD.

 

[nordberg73]

The quote sounds very resonable IMO, even for Yorkshire (whereabouts?).

Will the place be occupied during the work? Will you help by removing floorboards, chasing walls?

LD2 is a fire reg I believe. You should have one per level.
17th edition is the wiring regs that are in force now. Consumer units with two RCDs protecting all circuits are often referred to as 17th edition units, because they satisfy the newest part of the regs, which generally require RCD protection for every circuit, but discourage the use of only one RCD.

Hi - it's Leeds.

House will be empty. I doubt I will be able to help too much as I just don't have the time... One stipulation is to take extra care with floorboards as we will be polishing them....

Thanks for your reply. It makes much more sense now

I thought it was reasonable tbh. No doubt we will need more sockets and we'll want halogens in the ceiling in the bathroom and kitchen eventually which will all burn my pockets even more

 

[Steve]

Dont use halogens. Use these:

http://www.anselluk.com/datasheets/Galaxy PL Downlight.pdf

Or similar. I'm going to use them in the kitchen when I get my place.

 

[nordberg73]

What do they offer over and above standard halogens... They look a bit specialist which might come back and bite us.......

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

LD2 is a specification regarding fire alarm detection systems.

P systems= AFD primarily designed to protect property
L systems= AFD primarily designed to protect human life.
D = domestic system

I would also hope that he specified the AFD as "Grade D, category LD2"
(my preferred option in a domestic)

I think for a LD2 system, it calls for protection on the main exit route from the building (usually stairs, top and bottom) also detection facility in any rooms containing significant electrical appliances. (I personally include things like large TVs/hairdriers/Fan or convection heaters when in bedrooms when making an assesment)

For comparsion, i believe cat. LD3 only calls for detection in the escape routes, not into bedrooms.
Not sure about LD1, i imagine that probably calls for detection in all habitable rooms (or something like that)

There are further variables surrounding this e.g. do you require a heat detector in the kitchen? - this depends somewhat on locations of doorways
Further info about this can be found in BS5839-6

Did your spark give any additional details on where/what type of smoke detectors he intends to use? ( My guess - he would install a minimum of 3 )

 

[Steve]

What do they offer over and above standard halogens... They look a bit specialist which might come back and bite us.......

They are by definition energy saving. They use G24 compact fluorescent lamps (about £2 each) which will last a lot longer than halogen, give off less heat, and throw out a LOT more light, so you need less of them. Their beam is wider too. Buy the frosted glass version and you'll never know they are there. In my opinion its all a lot more elegant than halogen.

They cannot be dimmed, without changing the gear tray first. But you dont need dimming in a kitchen or bathroom.

B&Q sell the lamps, and they are widely available online too, cheaper, in a variety of shades of white.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

thanks nordberg (for nothing)

 

[nordberg73]

thanks nordberg (for nothing)

Not sure what you mean but I'm assuming you're upset for me not thanking you immediately. Truth is, I was still digesting all the information I'm getting off this great site and was just getting to yours. So, to clear up any confusion - Thank You! Your reply was very helpful and it's really good that there's so many clued up people on here to help us beginners out

 

[Steve]

thanks nordberg (for nothing)

Whats that all about then?

 

[OwainDIYer]

Sounds a businesslike spec but rather mean with sockets. No provision for multiple light levels in any major room - wall lights, sockets for table lamps, bedside lights, worktop lights for kitchen. Shaver point in bathroom. Cooker / boiler / immersion heater. It can be handy to have boiler on its own RCBO circuit then you don't lose heating if anything else in the house trips. TV / Satellite wiring. Etc.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

thanks nordberg (for nothing)

Whats that all about then?

Was just feeling a touch vunerable and un-loved
(and god forbid that happens, as i may have to clock up 100000+ posts on various forum to try to canvass and embrace the adulation i think i truely deserve)

Don't worry, i've got over myself now