Hive Bedroom Wiring

[s0ck3t]

Hi Guys

I have two controllers in my home the downstairs which I have swapped for a Hot Water and Heating Hive and was a fairly easy swap as I just dropped the COM cable which was just a link from the live all up and running.

Downstairs wiring for reference..


Upstairs is a different kettle of fish, It just does two radiators in the bedroom the controller just turns a valve from the main hot water tank.

I took the controller off that has a battery backup and found just a Live 240v as I tested live with my multimeter going to the com port and the NO which I assume is the wire that triggers the valve.

I tested the grey (live) no voltage so assumed this to be my Neutral and the earth. Wired the hive with these assumptions, nothing, no power!

How should this be wired? into a hive?

 

[CBW]

Find out if that grey wire is a neutral wire, then if it is wire up L to L, grey to N, black sleeved brown to NO, and put a link wire from L to 1 (Com).

 

[stem]

You require a single channel hive.

The thermostat switching wires go to the terminals that are marked the same as your existing thermostat. So:

The brown wire in existing thermostat 'Com' goes to Hive (1) 'Common'
The black wire with brown sleeve in existing thermostat 'NO' goes to Hive (3) Heating On, 'NO'

If I understand you correctly, you have tested the brown wire and it is a 230V live. If so Link Hive (L) To Hive (1) 'Common'

You then need a Neutral to Hive N. You could use the grey wire (put a blue sleeve over it to show you are using it as a Neutral wire) However, as your original thermostat was battery operated and didn't need a Neutral it may have been left unconnected at the other end as it is at the thermostat end, so you will either have to trace the cable back to its origin and connect the grey wire to a neutral associated with the heating system wiring, or run a new cable out to the receiver.

 

[s0ck3t]

I assume there is no way around this using another hot water and heating hive? If not I will be going back for an exchange.


You then need a Neutral to Hive N. You could use the grey wire (put a blue sleeve over it to show you are using it as a Neutral wire) However, as your original thermostat was battery operated and didn't need a Neutral it may have been left unconnected at the other end as it is at the thermostat end, so you will either have to trace the cable back to its origin and connect the grey wire to a neutral associated with the heating system wiring, or run a new cable out to the receiver.


I suspect it has been left unconnected as I had connected it and no lights on the hive.

 

[stem]

I assume there is no way around this using another hot water and heating hive? If not I will be going back for an exchange.

Both versions of Hive are mains powered and need 230V L & N

I suspect it has been left unconnected as I had connected it and no lights on the hive.

That would be quite normal, it shouldn't be too difficult to find the other end of the grey wire, normally it's somewhere in the wiring centre, (assuming your installation has one, most do) usually it's adjacent to the motorised valves.

Another option would be to disconnect the wiring to the old thermostat at the wiring centre, and then connect the Hive receiver directly to the wiring centre in its place, and also pick up an N & L from there at the same time. The Hive thermostat could then be located where the current thermostat is located, and the receiver won't be out on show. Some find the lights on the receiver irritating if it's installed in a bedroom.

 

[s0ck3t]

Thanks for the help I assume I dont need the COM connection?

Yes its a new build so know where the wiring center is just wanted to avoid going into it as I can imagine it's a rats nest inside as when we moved in the upstairs controller was controlling the main house and the downstairs controller was controlling the bedroom. (you can't write this stuff!)

 

[stem]

Thanks for the help I assume I dont need the COM connection?

Eh?!! How did you come to that conclusion?

The brown wire in existing thermostat 'Com' goes to Hive (1) 'Common'
The black wire with brown sleeve in existing thermostat 'NO' goes to Hive (3) Heating On, 'NO'

I understand you correctly, you have tested the brown wire and it is a 230V live. If so Link Hive (L) To Hive (1) 'Common'

If on the other hand, you are referring to using the wrong version of Hive for your application (ie the dual channel version) it doesn't have an external 'Common' connection this is made internally, and the wiring is different from that I gave for the single channel version.

 

[s0ck3t]

Hi stem

I assumed form your previous comments that I didn't need the COM connection and I could use the duel channel with only the heating element if I connect the Neutral as you have just said...
it doesn't have an external 'Common' connection this is made internally

Reading between the lines you are saying the duel connection will not function at all unless it detects at least a 'Heating On' and 'HotWater On' cabling?

Sorry was just trying to avoid returning/exchanging as in my head I see no reason why the duel channel would not work with just the N, L, NO on connected.

Thanks

 

[stem]

You can use a dual channel Hive, but why would you? It will have hot water control that won't actually be doing anything, and probably will cost you more to buy.

Anyway, if you did use a dual channel version, it requires N (missing) & L (brown wire now in COM) and the NO (black wire) will go to the dual channel terminal 4 'Heating on' (NO)

No other link; because, as per my earlier comment; Hive dual channel has it made internally.

 

[s0ck3t]

Hi stem

Thats perfect, I know a little odd but I thought if/when I move I had some resale value on a hot water and heating and they were both £119 on Black Friday for both single or dual channel.

Thank you very much for your help and clarification.

Kind Regards.