It can be done but it's not very professional and you will have hot water control features on your app that won't do anything. So, I would recommend changing it for a single channel version that is specifically designed for combi's.
With either version, if you have to open up a room sealed compartment to access the wiring terminals (with some boilers you do, some you don't) this is not a DIY job and should be done by a Registered Gas Installer (Gas Safe), who can make sure it is properly sealed up again afterwards.
However if you can't exchange the Hive, and can access the terminals without opening a room sealed compartment, it can be connected as follows:
The Dual Channel needs a N & L from the same 3A fused supply as the boiler. [see red circle]
The Hive (4) 'Heating on' connects to the top terminal where the wire marked bk1 is [see green circle]
No connection is required to the terminal where the wire marked bk2 is.
The bk2 wire provides a 230V live output for a thermostat, as the direction arrow on the boiler connection diagram shows. However, the Dual Channel Hive doesn't need this additional live as it is internally linked to its own live as Bernard's diagram shows quite nicely for you.
So there is no need for another live connection to the Hive from the terminal bk2 is connected to, as it already has one.
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